As women start to go grey, a common question arises: should I add lowlights or highlights to my hair? Both can help blend greys seamlessly, but there are some key differences between the two techniques. Keep reading as we break down the pros and cons of lowlights vs. highlights for grey hair.
What are lowlights?
Lowlights are strands of hair that are dyed a shade darker than your natural color. The purpose of lowlights is to add depth and dimension. They also help blend any greys by making the grey strands less noticeable against the darker shades throughout the hair.
Lowlights create a soft, natural look. Rather than completely covering the greys, lowlights break up the demarcation line so there is a more seamless transition between the dark and light shades in your hair.
What are highlights?
Highlights involve lightening strands of hair to a lighter shade than your natural color. Highlights are placed strategically throughout the hair to brighten up your look and add dimension.
For women with grey hair, highlights can help blend in the grey strands by making them match the lighter pieces distributed throughout the hairstyle. The highlights break up the scalp line so the transition between grey roots and colored hair is less noticeable.
Pros and cons of lowlights for grey hair
Pros:
- Create depth and dimension to make greys less noticeable
- Soft, natural looking result
- More low maintenance than highlights
- Grow out more seamlessly as grey roots grow in
Cons:
- Don’t brighten up the face like highlights can
- Still requires regular touch-ups to cover grey regrowth
- Can appear too dark if the wrong toner or level is chosen
Pros and cons of highlights for grey hair
Pros:
- Brighten up the face and add radiance
- Make grey strands blend in seamlessly
- Fun, youthful appearance
- Allows you to go longer between full color appointments
Cons:
- More high maintenance – need regular touch ups to minimize regrowth
- Can damage hair if not done properly
- Grow out line can be more noticeable
- Risk of brassiness if the wrong toner is used
Things to consider when choosing between lowlights or highlights
Now that you know the key differences between lowlights and highlights, here are some tips on choosing between the two techniques for blending gray hair:
Your base hair color
Women with light to medium brown hair will look beautiful with a full head of subtle highlights. Those with dark brown to black hair have more options – both lowlights and highlights can work well to blend greys.
Your skin tone
Cooler complexions look best with ash and beige blonde highlights. Warm skin tones glow with golden and caramel babylights. To determine your skin undertone, look at the veins on your wrist – blue means cool, green means warm.
Your hair’s condition
Dry, damaged hair is better suited to lowlights since dyeing hair lighter with highlights can be harsh on fragile strands. Highlights require more precision placement and time under the drying lights. If your hair is very fine or brittle, lowlights are the safer option.
Your lifestyle
Frequent swimmers or exercisers should opt for highlights – the grow out line is less noticeable so you can go longer between touch ups. Busy moms or businesswomen often appreciate the low maintenance nature of lowlights.
Your aesthetic
Like a soft, natural look? Lowlights are for you. Prefer a brighter, highlighted appearance? Go for highlights. Both can blend greys beautifully – it just depends on your personal style preference.
How to choose the right lowlights or highlights for your hair
Choosing the right lowlights for your hair
When adding lowlights, work with an experienced colorist to determine the right depth and tones.
As a general rule of thumb:
- Go 2 shades darker if you have light blonde hair
- Go 1-2 shades darker for medium to dark blonde hair
- Go 1-2 shades lighter if you have dark brown to black hair
Always do a strand test first when going more than two shades darker to prevent an overly dark result.
Cool ash tones will blend grays best on light hair. Golden tones help warm up the skin and brighten up medium to dark brunette hair the best.
Choosing the right highlights for your hair
With highlights, stay close to your natural base color – 1-2 shades lighter for fine, blended results. Babylights (very fine highlights) provide the most natural look.
On darker hair, balayage highlights swept around the face can provide enough brightening while still looking natural.
Avoid brassiness on light and grey hair by using an ash or beige blonde toner.
Face-framing highlights around the hairline also minim minimizes the demarcation line as greys grow in at the part and hairline.
Application techniques for lowlights and highlights
| Technique | Application Process |
|---|---|
| Foil highlights | Hair is sectioned and the highlights are applied with a brush and applicator bottle. The lightened sections are wrapped in foil to process. |
| Balayage highlights | The color is hand painted directly onto the hair with no foils. Provides a soft, blended look. |
| Babylights | Tiny, fine highlights are strategically placed throughout the hair for a natural looking highlight effect. |
| Lowlights | The darker shade is applied all over or in fine sections before or after highlights. No foils are used. |
Your colorist will recommend the right application method based on the look you are trying to achieve and your hair type and condition.
How to maintain lowlights and highlights
Proper maintenance is key to keeping lowlights and highlights looking their best. Here are some haircare tips:
Use a sulfate-free shampoo
Sulfate-free formulas help maintain color vibrancy and shine while keeping processed hair from drying out. Massage shampoo gently into hair instead of vigorously scrubbing.
Use a moisturizing conditioner
Look for a rich, creamy conditioner. Concentrate conditioner mid-lengths down to ends and avoid applying directly to the roots which can lead to limp hair.
Limit washing to 2-3 times per week
Frequent shampooing can cause lowlights and highlights to fade more quickly. Use a dry shampoo between washes to refresh hair.
Use a deep conditioning hair mask 1-2 times per week
Hair masks boost hydration and help prevent damage to color treated hair. Apply all over, cover hair with a shower cap, and leave on for 15-30 minutes before rinsing out.
Rinse with cool water and limit heat styling
Heat and hard water are damaging to color treated hair. Rinse hair with cool water instead of hot. Allow hair to air dry when possible and limit use of hot styling tools.
Touch up roots regularly
Plan to touch up highlights every 3-4 months and lowlights every 4-6 months to minimize grey regrowth and keep hair looking its best.
Conclusion
Lowlights and highlights both allow you to seamlessly blend greys into your hair. Lowlights create soft dimension while highlights brighten up the face. Take your natural color, complexion, hair condition, and lifestyle into account when deciding between the two techniques.
Work closely with an experienced, trusted colorist to determine the right placement and shade ratios to achieve a natural looking result. Proper maintenance and touch-ups are key to keeping lowlights and highlights looking beautiful.
While greys will inevitably happen with age, lowlights and highlights let you embrace the grey in a gorgeous, graceful way. With the right technique and maintenance, your silvery strands can become a shimmering crown of light!