Many people with naturally dark hair who want to go blonde struggle with brassiness and orange tones showing up in their hair. This is especially common for those with warm undertones. The pigments in dark hair can cause orange or red tones to come through when you lighten hair. So does going ash blonde help cancel out orange tones?
Ash blonde hair has a cool undertone that helps counteract warmth and brassiness. By adding ash tones to your blonde, whether through toner, dye, or other methods, you can help neutralize and cancel out orange hues. However, how well it covers orange depends on your natural hair color and tone.
What causes orange hair when going blonde?
When you lighten naturally dark hair, you are removing underlying pigments. Hair’s natural pigment contains both warm and cool undertones. Darker hair has more pigment while lighter hair has less.
As you remove pigment, you gradually reveal lighter shades. However, with warm hair, the remaining pigment skews towards the red and orange spectrum.
Melanin gives hair its color. Eumelanin creates brown and black tones. Pheomelanin creates red and orange hues. Those with darker hair have more eumelanin. As that is removed, pheomelanin remains, causing orange tones.
How to neutralize brassiness
To combat this, you need to counteract the warm pigments by adding cool tones. There are a few techniques for this:
Toner
– Toner deposits pigment onto bleached hair. Ash toners contain blue/violet pigments to neutralize warmth.
Dye
– An ash blonde dye can add cooler tones to all layers of hair. This gives more complete coverage than toning bleached hair.
Gloss
– An ash gloss helps refresh your tone between full dye jobs. The semi-permanent color boosts cool tones.
Shampoo & conditioner
– Using purple shampoo helps prevent brassiness from building up. The pigments in the shampoo neutralize warmth.
Will ash cancel out orange?
How well ash counters orange depends on:
Your natural hair color
– Those with darker, warmer hair have more underlying orange/red pigment. This can make it harder to neutralize.
How light you go
– The lighter the blonde, the more pigment gets removed, making way for orange hues. Ash works best for darker blondes.
Application method
– To fully cancel orange, use an ash dye. Toners are best for targeting only bleached areas.
Tone level
– A darker ash won’t neutralize as well. Go for an ash toner or dye close to your target level.
Best methods by natural hair color
| Natural Hair Color | Best Ash Method |
|---|---|
| Black | Ash dye |
| Dark brown | Ash dye or toner |
| Medium brown | Ash toner |
| Light brown | Ash gloss or toner |
Those with darker hair need stronger ash pigment to combat greater warmth. Lighter hair has less underlying orange, so ash toner or a gloss may suffice.
Level of blonde and ash tones
The lighter you go, the harder it is to neutralize orange. If going for a pale blonde, an ash toner likely won’t cancel 100% of brassiness. However, it can still help subdue some unwanted warmth.
| Blonde Level | Ash Effectiveness |
|---|---|
| Dark blonde | Very effective |
| Medium blonde | Moderately effective |
| Light blonde | Subtle effectiveness |
| Pale/platinum blonde | Marginal effectiveness |
The more pigment you remove, the more underlying orange shows through. So ash has a harder time fully neutralizing for pale shades.
Choosing the right ash tone
Picking the right ash is key for properly canceling brassiness.
For toners, match it to your target level. If aiming for level 8 blonde, use an ash toner close to level 8. Going too dark won’t deposit enough pigment.
With dyes, you can modify intensity. An ultra ash dye will create a stronger cool tone than regular ash blonde dye.
You can also mix ash with other tones. An ash beige or ash golden dye combines cool and warm pigments for more balance.
Application tips
How you apply ash products also impacts their effectiveness:
Evenly apply toner: Make sure toner saturates all areas needing brassiness control. Quickly rinsing it can dilute the effects.
Use clarifying shampoo first: Remove buildup so the ash dye or toner absorbs well for maximum effect.
Focus on mid-lengths/ends: These areas are more porous for better toner depositing. Roots don’t need as much to stay neutral.
Gloss every 2-4 weeks: Quick gloss touch-ups prevent brassiness from building back up.
How long ash tones last
Results will vary based on your natural hair and application method. In general:
Ash dye: 4-6 weeks
Ash toner: 4-8 weeks
Ash gloss: 2-4 weeks
The cooler pigments will gradually fade and wash out over time. Regular toning is needed for lasting results. Using ash shampoo and conditioner between applications helps prolong the tones.
Conclusion
Ash blonde is an effective way to counteract orange tones in bleached or highlighted hair. It works by depositing opposite blue/violet pigments to neutralize warmth in the hair’s pigment. How well it cancels brassiness depends on factors like your natural color and how light you go. While ash helps minimize orange hues, it works best for those with darker blonde and brunette hair. Regular toning is needed to maintain the ash effect. For pale blondes, ash helps tone down some orange but may not eliminate all warmth.
