Cameos are a popular type of jewelry that feature carved images like portraits or silhouettes. They are usually made from materials like shell, glass, stone, or ceramic. Authentic antique cameos can be quite valuable, so it’s important to be able to identify real versus fake cameos. There are a few things to look for when determining if a cameo is genuine.
Check the Materials
Most real cameos are carved from shell, especially seashells like conch or cameo mollusk. Other common materials for antique cameos include lava, onyx, agate, coral, and ivory. Modern cameos may also be made from glass, plastic, or porcelain. Examine the material closely under good lighting. Natural materials like shell or stone will have slight imperfections, pores, or striations that are difficult to replicate in synthetic materials. The carving should also follow the natural contours and patterns of the material.
Look at the Craftsmanship
Authentic cameos require great skill to carve the intricate designs from the material. Study the carving techniques used. A real cameo will have depth and dimension in the carving, especially around the face. The lines and details should be very crisp and precise, even under magnification. Fakes may have uneven or exaggerated carving. The image will also be appropriately proportional. Poorly made copies often have design errors like disproportionate features.
Examine the Settings
For mounted cameos, look at the settings and fittings. Most antique cameos are set in gold or silver with pins, necklaces or bracelets typical of the era. Low quality fakes might have modern settings. Any markings or hallmarks on the metals can also help verify age and origins. Research common marks from the assumed time period and region of origin.
Consider the Subject Matter
What image is carved into the cameo? Portrait cameos were very popular in the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras. Common subjects were profiles of Greek gods or goddesses, Roman emperors and empresses, or notable historic figures. Later cameos depicted romantic scenes or figures. Study the styles and subjects typical of the suspected time period. Costumes, hairstyles, etc. should match the era.
Know the History
Collect as much history as possible about the cameo. Family heirlooms or cameos from reputable antique dealers are more likely to be genuine. A long, documented history of previous owners helps support authenticity. For cameos missing provenance, research the styles, materials, and subject matter for clues on the origins.
Examine Under Magnification
Use a jeweler’s loupe or magnifying glass for close examination. This can reveal details otherwise invisible to the naked eye. Look for evidence of machine work versus hand carving. Signs of artificial aging or distressing will also be more apparent. The colors and motifs should be consistent under magnification.
Consult an Expert Appraiser
If still uncertain, consult a qualified appraiser. A professional gemologist or cameo specialist can perform tests and examinations to accurately date and authenticate the materials and carving. Things like quality marks, chemical properties, and special imaging can help confirm or rule out the cameo’s description.
Test the Color and Patina
Both natural materials and manufacturing methods impart a distinct patina or coloration. Shell cameos have a matte luminosity, while glass and plastic appear more artificial. Ivory develops a yellowish gloss over time. Examine color consistency across the entire cameo to make sure the patina isn’t fake. authentication tests like hot needle, blacklight, and scratch methods can identify false patinas.
Feel the Weight and Temperature
Genuine materials have a characteristic weight – shell feels lightweight, while lava or onyx have more heft. Porcelain and plastics feel abnormally light. Testing temperature response can also identify fakes; real stones feel cool to the touch, while composites stay warm longer. The weight and temperature should align with expectations for the indicated materials.
Require Certificate of Authenticity
For valuable antique cameos, always demand a certificate of authenticity from the seller, issued by a reputable appraiser or expert. This certificate should detail the materials, age, origin, dimensions, condition, and provenance. Certified cameos have undergone rigorous testing and examination to verify their descriptions. Proper documentation protects against forgeries.
Review Import/Export Marks
Genuine antique cameos often bear small import or export marks, especially if transported between countries for previous sales. Search carefully for small stamped marks, inventory codes, or labels. Verify any markings match the supposed origins and ownership history. This can help confirm or refute the stated provenance.
Compare Similar Examples
Whenever possible, compare the cameo to verified examples from the same time period or workshop. Look for consistency in materials, carving methods, design motifs, settings, and other attributes. Forgeries often misrepresent designs from a certain era. Side by side comparison highlights inconsistencies. Access cameo databases to find comparative examples.
Conclusion
Determining authenticity requires a holistic inspection of the cameo and its history. When multiple factors – materials, carving, design, settings, coloration, weight, and provenance – all consistently support the origins, the cameo is more likely genuine. Seek out professional appraisers if any factors seem inconsistent or suspicious. With careful examination and research, most forged cameos can be identified and avoided. Investing in certified, documented pieces always reduces risk when collecting real cameos.
Summary of How to Tell If a Cameo is Real
| Method | What to Look For |
|---|---|
| Check Materials | Natural materials like shell, lava, coral with natural imperfections |
| Examine Craftsmanship | Intricate, precise hand carved details with depth |
| Inspect Settings | Appropriate for suspected time period and metal purity |
| Know Subject Matter | Matches known themes and styles from era |
| Research History | Documented provenance and ownership records |
| Magnification | Evidence of hand crafting without artificial distressing |
| Get Expert Opinion | Scientific testing to authenticate materials and age |
| Test Patina | Even, consistent colors without artificial patinas |
| Check Weight & Temperature | Aligns with expectations for indicated materials |
| Demand Certificate | Issued by qualified appraiser after examination |
| Import/Export Marks | Match stated origins and transportation records |
| Compare to Examples | Consistent with verified cameos from same era/workshop |
