It is a common question for many men when getting dressed for an event or occasion – is it acceptable to wear a suit jacket and pants that are different colors? The traditional guidance has been that suits should always be matching sets, often in navy, black, or charcoal. However, as fashion trends have evolved, the rules around suit colors have relaxed and it is increasingly common to see men wearing different colored jackets and pants.
There are a few key considerations when deciding if a contrasting suit is appropriate:
The event/occasion
The most important factor is the formality and expectations of the event you will be attending. For very formal affairs like weddings, important business meetings, or black-tie events, sticking to a traditional matching suit is likely the safer option. The expectations for formality are high in these situations, so an unmatched suit may be seen as too casual and informal.
For less formal daytime business events, stylish social occasions, or going out at night, an unmatched suit can be pulled off more easily. The vibe is more relaxed so you can experiment with different colors without looking out of place. Just use some judgement – wildly contrasting colors in a serious business meeting may still raise some eyebrows.
Color combination
If you do want to wear an unmatched suit, the most important rule is to keep the color combination tasteful and subtle. Go for colors that naturally complement each other like navy jacket and grey pants or a charcoal jacket with tan pants. Avoid combining shades that are too far apart on the color wheel like navy and brown or black and khaki as they will look mismatched.
Stick with matte finishes rather than anything too shiny or glossy. Texture is also important – pairing a flannel jacket with smooth wool pants helps bridge the color divide.
Fit
With any suit, matched or unmatched, fit is essential. The jacket and pants must both fit impeccably through the shoulders, chest, waist and legs to pull off the mixed color look. If the fit is off, even slightly, an unmatched suit will accentuate every flaw. Get properly measured by a tailor when shopping for an unmatched suit and have the final product professionally altered.
| Suit Color Combinations | Rating |
|---|---|
| Navy jacket, grey pants | Safest choice |
| Charcoal jacket, navy pants | Versatile and sharp |
| Tan jacket, navy pants | Stylish for summer |
| Grey jacket, black pants | Sleek and modern |
| Brown jacket, light grey pants | Refined and elegant |
Footwear & accessories
Complete the mismatched suit look by paying close attention to your footwear and accessory choices.
Opt for shoes that include tones from both the jacket and pants to help bridge the divide. Brown or tan wingtips can complement navy and grey well. Match the belt to the shoes.
Solid ties, pocket squares, and shirts in a color that echoes the pants or jacket also help pull the look together.
The briefcase, watch, sunglasses and jewelry should all coordinate tastefully without matching exactly.
Start slow
When first experimenting with an unmatched suit, start small with simple combinations like navy and grey. Build confidence wearing it in lower-stakes situations before trying bolder mixes or wearing one to the office.
It can also help to add a traditional matching suit jacket, navy blazer or sport coat to your wardrobe for versatility. Wearing these pieces over contrasting pants is another great way to ease into the style.
Conclusion
The tradition of matching suit sets arose from the conformity and formality of decades past. Today’s more progressive and individualistic fashion landscape allows the stylish modern man much more flexibility.
An unmatched suit is symbolic of that attitude – confidently breaking the “rules” while still maintaining taste and refinement.
With the right color pairing, fit, complementary accessories, and sense of occasion, wearing a contrasting jacket and pants can be pulled off successfully. Experiment, start slow, and have fun expressing your personal style!
