Keratin hair treatments have become increasingly popular over the past decade as a way to smooth, straighten, and add shine to hair. While traditional keratin treatments use harsh formaldehyde, newer keratin coloring treatments claim to be formaldehyde-free and safe for all hair types. But are keratin hair colors really as gentle as they claim? In this in-depth article, we’ll explore whether keratin hair colors can damage your strands.
How Do Keratin Hair Colors Work?
Keratin hair colors employ a gentle alternative to traditional oxidative hair dyes. Rather than opening the cuticle and depositing pigment inside the hair shaft, keratin colors coat the outside of the hair in a protective keratin layer while depositing color. This allows the color to wash out over time while strengthening and smoothing the hair.
The main active ingredient in keratin hair colors is hydrolyzed keratin protein. This protein binds to the hair, filling in gaps and micro-fissures in the cuticle. The colored pigments adhere to the keratin layer, resulting in even, shiny color that lasts 4-12 weeks.
Here’s a quick rundown of how keratin hair color works:
- A keratin-rich conditioning cream is applied to shampooed, towel-dried hair.
- The cream sits on the hair for 20 minutes to allow the keratin to bind to the strands.
- Colored pigments in the cream cause a staining effect on the hair shaft.
- The hair is rinsed clean, resulting in smooth, vivid, temporary color.
Benefits of Keratin Hair Color
Traditional permanent hair dyes work by opening the cuticle and depositing color inside the cortex of the hair. This process can damage hair over time by:
- Stripping natural oils and proteins
- Weakening the internal structure of the hair
- Removing moisture and elasticity
Because keratin hair colors coat the outside of the hair shaft, they offer several advantages:
1. Less Hair Damage
Permanent hair dye causes structural damage each time it lifts the cuticle and penetrates the cortex. Keratin colors create minimal cuticle lifting, reducing the risk of damage to the internal proteins and lipids that give hair its strength.
2. Added Protection
The hydrolyzed keratin in these colors penetrates into gaps and cracks in the hair cuticle, making strands look and feel stronger, smoother and shinier.
3. Gradual Fading
Since keratin hair colors don’t penetrate the cortex, the colors wash out gradually over 4-12 weeks as the keratin coating dissipates. This allows the shade to fade naturally and seamlessly.
4. Versatility
Keratin hair colors can be applied to virgin, colored, bleached, and highlighted hair. The conditioning creams add shine and protection to damaged areas. And unlike permanent dye, the colors won’t negatively interact with chemically treated hair.
Are There Any Risks?
While keratin hair colors are gentler compared to traditional permanent dyes, there are a few potential risks to consider:
- Skin irritation – The keratin proteins can cause irritation or allergic reaction on the scalp in those with sensitive skin.
- Color accuracy – Keratin colors tend to appear slightly darker on blondes, and results can vary depending on your base color.
- Fading – Colors won’t fade perfectly evenly, so expect slightly uneven tone a few weeks after application.
- Damaged hair – The keratin can’t fully penetrate into very porous, damaged areas which can lead to uneven color.
Keratin Color vs. Permanent Dye
To understand whether keratin hair colors damage hair, it helps to directly compare them to traditional permanent dyes.
| Keratin Hair Color | Permanent Hair Dye | |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Coats outside of hair | Penetrates hair cortex |
| Lasts for | 4-12 weeks | 4-8 weeks (roots), months (lengths) |
| Ammonia | No | Usually yes |
| Peroxide | No | Yes |
| Damage risk | Very low | Higher |
As shown in the table, permanent dyes contain ammonia and peroxide to open the cuticle and deposit color. This causes more structural damage over time compared to keratin colors.
Keratin Treatment After Coloring
Many people combine a keratin color service with a separate keratin smoothing treatment to maximize the hair strengthening and smoothing benefits. Here’s what to know:
- Wait at least 2 weeks after getting a keratin color before using a keratin smoother. This allows the color to fully oxidize.
- A keratin smoothing service can be done right after the color starts fading, around the 4 week mark, to refresh the results.
- Too much keratin protein can cause buildup on the hair. Consider alternating between color and smoothing treatments each session.
- Use a clarifying shampoo once a week to prevent excessive protein buildup over time.
Aftercare Tips
Proper aftercare can help you get the most out of your keratin hair color service:
- Shampoo less frequently – Shampooing speeds up fading, so limit washing to 2-3 times per week.
- Use sulfate-free shampoo – Sulfate-free formulas help lock in moisture and color.
- Rinse with cool water – Hot water opens the cuticle, so use the coolest temperature you can tolerate.
- Limit heat styling – Allow hair to air dry when possible and minimize hot tools to prevent fading.
- Touch up the roots – Apply keratin color just to the regrowth every 4-6 weeks to maintain vibrancy.
Conclusion
While no hair coloring service is completely damage-free, keratin hair colors are gentler compared to traditional permanent dyes. By coating the outside of strands in a protective protein layer, keratin colors reduce the cuticle lifting and penetration that can cause hair weakness and dryness. While they must be reapplied more frequently, keratin hair colors provide a vibrant refresh with minimal risk of structural damage.
When combined with a proper aftercare routine focused on hydration and minimal washing, keratin hair colors let you change your look while still prioritizing the health of your hair.
