When knitting colorwork, especially Fair Isle or stranded knitting with multiple colors per row, the recommendation is often to go up a needle size compared to your regular gauge swatch. But why is that, and is it always necessary? In this in-depth look at needle sizes for colorwork, we’ll examine the reasoning behind sizing up, when you actually need to move up, and how to decide on the right needle size.
Why Size Up for Colorwork?
There are a few key reasons why most knitters choose to go up a needle size or two when working colorwork:
- More positive ease – Colorwork fabric is naturally thicker and less elastic than single-color stockinette. Going up a needle size compensates for the thicker fabric and maintains positive ease.
- Preventing tight floats – Using a larger needle size creates looser floats across the wrong side of the fabric. This helps the colorwork breathe and prevents puckering.
- Stitch definition – Stranded knitting looks best with clear, even stitches. A slightly larger needle shows off the colorwork pattern and helps stitches maintain their shape.
The extra room created by larger needles allows the multiple strands of yarn to move freely without restricting the knitted fabric. This is especially important for garments, where too-tight colorwork could create discomfort and issues with wearability.
When Can You Stick with Regular Needles?
While going up a needle size is usually recommended for colorwork, it’s not required in every case. Here are some instances where you may be able to use your regular needle size:
- Colorwork with just two colors – Two-color colorwork tends to have better drape and elasticity. As long as your floats aren’t too tight, regular needles may work.
- Looser knitters – If your regular knitting tension is on the looser side, sizing up risks extremely loose colorwork. Try a swatch first.
- Thicker yarn weights – Bulky and super bulky yarns have enough space to allow colorwork with regular needles.
- Small colorwork sections – A few scattered motif rows may not require upsizing if worked in a loftier gauge.
- Non-garment projects – Household items like pillows or blankets won’t need as much drape and elasticity.
The type of colorwork pattern also matters. Stranded knitting with long floats across the back typically requires more room than mosaic knitting, intarsia, double knitting, or slip stitch variations. Evaluate your specific project and all its variables.
How to Determine the Right Needle Size
The best way to determine the ideal needle size for a colorwork project is to swatch. This holds true whether you think you might need to size up or if you want confirmation that regular needles will work.
When swatching for colorwork:
- Use the same yarns called for in your project
- Work a 4×4 inch swatch in stockinette to determine your regular gauge
- Work a second 4×4 inch swatch in the colorwork pattern
- Try both your regular needles and one size up to compare
- Make sure to check your row gauge in addition to stitch gauge
Evaluate the swatches and choose the needle size with the following traits:
- Stitches look clear and even
- No obvious looseness or tightness in the knitted fabric
- Floats across wrong side can move freely without pulling
- Fabric has good drape and elasticity when stretched
- Gauge matches pattern gauge (or adjust pattern accordingly)
Keep in mind that different sizes within the same colorwork piece may require different needles. For example, you might use size 8 (5 mm) needles for the main color ribbed cuffs and hem but switch to size 9 (5.5 mm) needles when you begin the colorwork section. Always swatch the specific colorwork pattern you’ll use to determine its ideal needle size.
How Much Should You Size Up?
As a general guideline, try going up one full needle size when swatching your colorwork. So if the pattern was designed at a 5 mm (size 8) needle gauge, try swatching in colorwork with 6 mm (size 9) needles.
| Regular Needle Size | Colorwork Needle Size |
|---|---|
| 2.25 mm (Size 1) | 2.75 mm (Size 2) |
| 2.75 mm (Size 2) | 3.25 mm (Size 3) |
| 3.25 mm (Size 3) | 3.75 mm (Size 5) |
| 3.75 mm (Size 5) | 4.5 mm (Size 7) |
| 4.5 mm (Size 7) | 5 mm (Size 8) |
| 5 mm (Size 8) | 6 mm (Size 9) |
However, depending on your knitting style and the specific yarns used, you may need to size up 1.5 or 2 needle sizes for your colorwork. For example, regular gauge in worsted weight yarn on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles may jump all the way up to size 9 (5.5 mm) needles for colorwork. Let your swatch be your guide when deciding how much to size up.
Tips for Swatching Colorwork
Getting accurate gauge from your colorwork swatch requires a few special considerations:
- Block your swatch – Make sure to wet block and allow to fully dry while pinned, as colorwork gauge can shift significantly during blocking.
- Check row gauge – Measure both vertical and horizontal measurements, since colorwork often changes row gauge.
- Swatch flat – When working back and forth in rows, rather than in the round, you can better assess any tension or float issues.
- Measure away from edges – The outer stitches of a swatch can distort gauge, so measure an inner 4×4 inch section.
- Use long tail cast on – A stretchy cast on will offer a better gauge assessment than a tighter cast on like the standard long tail method.
Be sure to label your swatches with yarn info, needles sizes, and measurements so you can refer back when starting your project. This will help you determine both overall gauge as well as any adjustments needed between sizes or sections.
Strategies for Switching Needle Sizes
Once you’ve settled on the right needle sizes for your colorwork project, you’ll need to make the switch between sizes as you knit. Here are some tips for smoothly changing needle sizes:
- Plan needle changes at natural transition rows in the pattern, such as at the beginning/end of a motif or section.
- When moving up a needle size, cast on and work an inch or two of ribbing with the larger needles to better hide the transition.
- For sections worked flat, plan needle changes on WS rows to make them less visible.
- For changing sizes mid-round when working circular, shift on a repeat of the colorwork chart or motif.
- Take care that sts aren’t looser or tighter right at the needle transition area.
- Minimize seaming by working as much as possible back and forth on the appropriate needle sizes before joining.
Make notes right on your pattern or knitting chart where you plan to change needle sizes. You may even want to place stitch markers in your work when you make a switch as a visual reminder.
Special Considerations for Specific Techniques
Certain colorwork techniques come with their own needle size considerations:
Stranded Knitting Tips
- Size up at least one needle size, sometimes two sizes.
- Use larger needle sizes for motifs with long floats, but go closer to regular size for motifs with shorter floats.
- Try sizing down partially again when you move into solid stockinette sections without colorwork.
Fair Isle Tips
- The thicker fabric needs enough ease – size up 1-2 needle sizes.
- Use more pliable wood, bamboo, or plastic needles to help tight stitches move more freely.
- Watch out for oversized needles creating gaps between motif stitches.
Double Knitting Tips
- Try one needle size up to compensate for the extra layer of fabric.
- Very lofty/textured yarns may not require upsizing needles.
- Make sure stitches aren’t so loose that fabric lacks structure.
Intarsia Knitting Tips
- Intarsia doesn’t require as much ease as stranded knitting – regular needles are often fine.
- Looser knitters may still opt to size up slightly, around a half size rather than a full size.
- Ensure joins between motif areas remain smooth without holes from sizing up too much.
Sample your chosen technique specifically when swatching and determining needle size. The needle requirements can vary quite a bit among colorwork methods.
Conclusion
While sizing up your needles for colorwork is standard practice, make sure to evaluate each project individually through swatching. The type of colorwork, the specific yarns involved, your own knitting style, and details of the pattern all impact how much you may need to increase your needle size. Take the time to swatch and find that ideal needle for both ensuring the integrity of your knitted fabric as well as showing off your woven colorwork motifs. With the right needles, you’ll get beautiful results!
