Cherokee beads have been an important part of Cherokee culture for centuries. The colors and patterns used in Cherokee beadwork have special cultural and spiritual meaning. In this article, we’ll explore the different colors used in Cherokee beadwork and their significance.
The History of Cherokee Beadwork
The Cherokee have a long tradition of beadwork stretching back hundreds of years. Archaeologists have found glass and shell beads at Cherokee sites dating to the early 1700s. At this time, the Cherokee began acquiring glass beads through trade with Europeans.
Prior to European contact, the Cherokee used locally sourced materials like shell, bone, wood, and stone for their beads. With access to new materials like glass, they were able to expand their beadwork design and color palettes.
Cherokee women were traditionally responsible for beadwork. Beads were both aesthetic and functional, being used to decorate clothing, bags, ceremonial items, and more. Each piece usually told a story or had symbolic meaning. Mothers and grandmothers passed down beading techniques from generation to generation.
Traditional Cherokee Bead Colors and Meanings
Cherokee beadwork incorporates vivid colors and intricate patterns. While styles have evolved over time, some traditional color meanings are still observed today.
White – White symbolizes peace, protection, and healing in Cherokee culture. White beads were used in ceremonies and prayers for peace. White beads on clothing were thought to offer spiritual protection.
Red – The color red carries various meanings like strength, energy, vitality, and success. Red beads were thought to energize and empower the wearer. They were also symbolic of war and victory in battle.
Black – Black represents death and the unknown. It’s also seen as a protective color. Black beads were worn to honor those who have passed away. Black could dispel negative energy.
Yellow – Yellow symbolizes sunlight, warmth, and openness. Yellow beads expressed hope, joy, and friendship. Yellow beads were given to friends or incorporated into cheerful designs.
Blue – Blue represents sky, water, and harmony. It’s considered a peaceful, calming color. Blue beads were used in designs for ceremonial or sacred items related to harmony and wisdom.
Green – Green symbolizes nature, fertility, growth, and balance. Medicine men would often incorporate green beads into their spiritual items. Green also signifies new beginnings and innocence.
Purple – Purple represents spiritual wisdom and power. It was a sacred color only worn by those who had earned it through acts of faith and leadership. Purple beads were restricted at times.
Brown – Brown signifies earth, home, and stability. It’s a grounding, natural color. Brown beads were woven into patterns that honored the earth and Cherokee lands.
Orange – Orange is symbolic of the sky at sunrise and sunset. It represents warmth, ferocity, and energy. Orange beads were used in bold, fiery designs.
Pink – Pink conveys romance, affection, gentleness, and femininity. It was used in courting and marriage designs for women. Pink expressed nurturing qualities.
Evolution of Cherokee Beadwork
Over centuries, Cherokee beadwork evolved from the materials used to the patterns and motifs. By the late 1700s, Cherokee beadwork had shifted from a purely traditional craft to a trade. Beaded items were sold to Europeans and Americans. Designs became more tailored towards buyers’ tastes while still retaining Cherokee influences.
Some key evolutions include:
– Materials: Shell and plant-based beads were replaced by European glass beads and seed beads which offered more variety and vibrancy. New materials continue to be incorporated like acrylic, plastic, and imitation sinew.
– Techniques: Cherokee artisans mastered new techniques like bead weaving, perpendicular stitching, overlay, and bead embroidery to accommodate new materials. Knowledge was passed down through generations.
– Patterns: Designs shifted from symbolic, sacred motifs towards floral, geometric, and figural motifs appealing to outsiders. Patterns became more elaborate using beadwork to create lifelike motifs.
– Purpose: Beadwork transitioned from ceremonial and spiritual purposes towards decorative and trade purposes. While retaining cultural significance, beadwork generated income for Cherokee families.
– Accessories: In earlier centuries, beads were used to embellish clothing and accessories like moccasins, shoulder bags, belts, and headbands. By the 1900s, beaded necklaces, bracelets, and barrettes grew popular.
Despite changes over time, Cherokee beadwork retains its cultural roots and techniques continue to be passed down within the Cherokee community. Each piece tells a story.
Common Motifs in Cherokee Beadwork
Over the centuries, certain motifs emerged frequently in Cherokee beadwork. These recurring motifs reflect the culture, values, and history of the Cherokee people. Some common motifs include:
Plants and Animals – Nature motifs like birds, butterflies, dragonflies, turtles, horses, and plants are ubiquitous in Cherokee beadwork. Animals and plants have symbolic meaning in Cherokee stories.
Circles – Circles represent cycles, community, unity, and the sun. Circular patterns are found in everything from jewelry to clothing embellishments.
Water – Wavy lines and zig zags symbolize water. Water patterns pay homage to the importance of rivers in Cherokee life.
Basket Weaves – Basket weave patterns honor the ancient Cherokee tradition of basket weaving. This technique requires skill and precision.
Arrowheads – Arrows and arrowheads signify protection, direction, and movement. They were a key hunting tool for Cherokee men.
Stars – Stars represent night skies and celestial bodies that the Cherokee used for navigation and time telling.
Fire – The element of fire, represented through flame-like patterns, signifies energy and light. Fire was vital for cooking, heat, and ceremonies.
Corn – As one of the Cherokee’s most important crops, corn frequently appears in beadwork. Corn represents sustenance, fertility, and the harvest.
These meaningful motifs continue to appear in both traditional and contemporary Cherokee beadwork. Over time, beaders have also incorporated new motifs from nature and even pop culture. However, traditional designs are still passed down and valued.
Contemporary Uses of Cherokee Beadwork
Cherokee beadwork remains an important folk art today. Both tradition and innovation influence modern Cherokee bead artists. Here are some contemporary ways beadwork is being used:
– Fine Art – Cherokee beadwork is now viewed as a fine art form exhibited in galleries and museums. Intricate beaded sculptures, 3D works, and installations push boundaries.
– High Fashion – Some Cherokee designers are elevating beadwork in modern fashion looks from streetwear to haute couture runways.
– Home Decor – Beaded coasters, pillows, frames, vases, and wall hangings decorate contemporary homes with Cherokee flair.
– Jewelry – From beaded necklaces and earrings to cuffs and barrettes, jewelry remains a popular medium for both wearable art and income.
– Craft Fairs – Cherokee beadworkers from elders to youth sell their handicrafts at festivals and fairs as a way to generate income and share culture.
– Ceremonies – Cherokee people continue using beaded regalia, clothing, and sacred items for cultural rituals, dances, weddings, and other ceremonies.
– Education – Many Cherokee beadwork classes and apprenticeships ensure traditional methods are passed down to new generations.
Today’s Cherokee bead artists blend modern materials and techniques with time-honored traditions to keep their craft evolving and alive. Their beadwork remains full of history and symbolism.
Notable Cherokee Bead Artists
Many gifted Cherokee beadwork artists have risen to prominence by pushing boundaries and gaining global followings. They honor past traditions while advancing Cherokee beadwork into new realms. Some trailblazers include:
– Vince Bell – Using peyote stitch, Bell creates stunningly lifelike beaded portraits of cultural icons from Sitting Bull to Jimi Hendrix. His hyper-realistic style made him the first Native bead artist collected by the Smithsonian.
– Cody Sanderson – Sanderson inventively incorporates beadwork into avant-garde fashion, from evening gowns to 6-inch heels. Known as the “beadwork guy,” his works have been showcased at top events like Santa Fe Indian Market.
– Dallin Maybee – Specializing in Classic Cherokee beadwork, Maybee creates historically inspired belts, medallions, necklaces, and more. His dedication to traditional methods earned him the prestigious Cherokee National Treasure award.
– Pat Courtney Gold – Gold produces stunningly intricate botanical scenes using millions of meticulously shaded seed beads. Gold’s reverence for nature shines through in her lifelike compositions which push beadwork into fine art realms.
– Jennie John – John upholds Cherokee traditions through classes at the Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual where she teaches beadwork passed down over four generations in her family. Her floral-inspired jewelry mixes old and new.
These artists exemplify the Cherokee beadworking tradition – rooted in history yet constantly evolving as beadwork adapts to reflect contemporary Cherokee identity. Their unique voices speak to the vibrant future of Cherokee bead art.
Traditional Materials Used in Cherokee Beadwork
Cherokee bead artists historically used whatever natural materials they could access locally. This shifted as European trade introduced glass beads and other materials to ultimately expand their beadwork palettes. Common traditional materials include:
| Material | Use |
|---|---|
| Shell | Shell beads, pendants, sequins from freshwater mollusks |
| Bone | Beads, pendants, and pins crafted from animal bone |
| Quill | Dyed porcupine quills were wrapped, woven, and embroidered |
| Wood | Beads, rings, and buckles carved from hardwoods like hickory |
| Stone | Beads, pendants, and embellishments cut from stones like pipestone |
| Clay | Fired, glazed clay used for beads and pendants |
| Glass | Intricately cut glass beads from Europe used in weaving and embroidery |
| Seeds | Seeds like Job’s Tears were polished and drilled for necklaces |
| Sinew | Animal sinew provided backing, ties, and thread for beadwork |
Each material lent unique properties from the smoothness of bone to the luster of quill that bead artists incorporated creatively. While advanced techniques allowed more elaborate designs, the fundamental skills trace back to these organic materials.
Traditional Beading Techniques
Cherokee bead artists developed specialized techniques to work with both natural materials and European trade beads. Knowledge of specific stitches, stringing, and beading methods was passed down generationally. Traditional beading techniques include:
– Loom Beading – Beads are woven into fabric using a loom in symmetrical, repetitive patterns. Loom beading is faster than hand beading.
– Spot Stitch – Beads are stitched down individually in floral, geometric, or figural motifs rather than in patterns. Spot stitch allows for lifelike designs.
– Lane Stitch – Parallel rows of beads are appliquéd onto fabric. Each row reinforces the last to prevent unraveling. Simple straight stitches add definition.
– Peyote Stitch – Even numbered beads are strung and stitched in a continuous weaving pattern to create beaded strips, medallions, or 3D shapes.
– Brick Stitch – Also called Comanche stitch. Each bead is stitched over two threads so beads on successive rows stack tightly like bricks for a solid fabric look.
– Netting – Beads are looped onto threads in repeating rows of interlocking loops. Adjusting tension creates diamond or square-shaped netting.
– Stringing – The simplest technique. Beads with drilled holes are strung onto thread, sinew, or wire to create necklaces, bracelets, and more.
– Appliqué – Beaded motifs are intricately stitched down onto larger backgrounds of fabric, leather, or other materials. Outlines are often defined.
Through mastery of both simple and advanced beading techniques, Cherokee artisans could render incredibly detailed and colorful designs full of meaning. These skills are still practiced and passed down today.
Evolution of Cherokee Bead Materials
The materials used in Cherokee beadwork have greatly expanded and evolved over centuries of trading, experimentation, and innovation.
Early Materials
Pre-European Contact: sea shells, bones, stones, wood beads, carved amulets, dyed porcupine quills, seeds
1700s
– Glass beads from Europe, predominantly blue and white
– Clay and stone pipe beads
– Metal tinkling cones and bells from Europe
1800s
– More variety of European glass beads like red Czech beads
– Enameled beads
– Sterling silver beads from Europe
– Commercially manufactured seed beads
1900s
– US-made glass heads in wider range of colors, sizes, finishes
– Plastic and acrylic beads
– Iridescent beads
– Metallic beads
– Glow in the dark beads
– Pony beads
Modern
– Preciosa and Miyuki Czech glass beads
– Swarovski crystal beads
– Semi-precious stone beads like turquoise
– Ceramic, wood, bone beads
– Gold, sterling beads
– Seed beads in every color; size from 6° to 15°
Today, both traditional materials and cutting-edge innovations are used in Cherokee beadwork as artists uphold traditions while exploring new trends. The timeless technique of hand beading remains at the core.
Significance of Cherokee Beadwork in Culture
For the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians, beadwork is more than just a craft – it’s an expression of cultural heritage and identity. Cherokee beadwork holds profound significance.
– Storytelling – Motifs, materials, and techniques encode cultural stories, values, and history that bead artists pass down.
– Spirituality – Beadwork connects the spiritual and physical worlds. Sacred designs invoke higher powers during ceremonies.
– Connection – Beadwork bonded generations as grandmothers, mothers, daughters created it communally and shared knowledge.
– Heritage – Traditional beadwork provides a tangible connection to Cherokee roots and principles despite how much time passes.
– Resilience – Centuries of restrictions, relocations, and cultural suppression failed to sever Cherokee’s ties to their bead art.
– Innovation – Cherokee bead artists advanced their medium, proving adaptable to new materials and open to outside influences.
– Income – As a specialized skill, beadwork generated income for Cherokee families struggling under colonization. It still does today.
– Tribal Pride – Intricate, meaningful beadwork instills pride in Cherokee identity and cultural traditions still thriving against the odds.
Cherokee beadwork persists as a celebration of culture and community with every hand-stitched bead crafted just as ancestors did centuries prior.
Conclusion
For the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians of North Carolina, beadwork is a direct link connecting past, present, and future generations. After European contact brought glass beads, Cherokee artists incorporated new materials yet retained the cultural heart of their craft. Bead colors, motifs, and techniques tell the story of the Cherokee and honor their worldview. Young bead artists still apprentice under elders to carry on knowledge and traditions.
While honoring history, Cherokee beadwork also evolves as artists embrace innovations and new trends. Once worn exclusively for ceremony and
