When browsing hair color shades at the salon or drugstore, you may notice letters and numbers after the color name, such as “light ash brown 5N.” These codes help hair colorists communicate exact shades and tones for predictable coloring results. While the naming systems vary between brands, here’s an overview of what the letters and numbers mean.
The Basic Hair Color Code
The most common hair color code uses one or more of the following letters to indicate tone:
- N – Neutral
- G – Gold or Golden
- A – Ash
- C – Cool
- W – Warm
- M – Mahogany or Maroon
- T – Taupe
Numbers accompany the letters to specify intensity. Lower numbers indicate lighter shades while higher numbers mean darker shades.
For example:
- 7N = Level 7 Neutral
- 5G = Level 5 Gold
- 4A = Level 4 Ash
The level system goes from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). So a 7N is a medium brown with neutral undertones, while a 10A is a very light blonde with ash tones.
Natural vs. Cool vs. Warm
Decoding what the letters mean for undertone can get tricky. Here’s an overview:
- Neutral – A balanced mix of warm and cool tones. “N” is commonly used but some brands may use “NN,” “NTRL,” or no letter for natural shades.
- Cool – Contains blue, violet, or ash undertones that counteract warmth. Indicated by “A” (ash) or “C” (cool).
- Warm – Has yellow, golden, or red tones that enliven the hair. Denoted by “G” (gold) or “W” (warm).
Warm shades complement warm skin tones with yellow and olive undertones. Cool shades flatter cool skin with pink undertones. Neutral shades work for most skin tones.
Additional Letters for Dimension
Some brands use extra letters to indicate secondary tones mixed into the shade:
- M – Mahogany or maroon-red tones
- V – Violet tones
- D – Doré or gold tones
- R – Coppery red
- G – Beige
For example, a 5NG would be a level 5 neutral brown with some golden tones. A 7AC is a level 7 ash-toned light brown with cooler undertones.
Numbering Systems
While most brands use a 1-10 level system from dark to light, some use alternate numbering including:
- 1-9 – Used by the Clairol Natural Instincts line, for example.
- 01-99 – A more specific numbering system used by Schwarzkopf and some pro brands.
- 1-7 – A condensed scale that combines multiple levels into one number. L’Oreal Excellence uses this.
It helps to look at shade descriptions or swatch charts to understand how the numbers convert across systems. An “8” in one brand may indicate a different depth than an “8” in another brand.
Decoding Popular Brand Codes
To make choosing shades even easier, many brands have their own coding system. Here are some examples:
| Brand | Code Meaning |
|---|---|
| L’Oreal | Letters for tone (N, G, A), number for depth level 1-7 |
| Revlon | Number indicates depth, letters for tone |
| Clairol | Number indicates depth on 1-9 scale, letters for tone |
| Schwarzkopf | Number 01-99 indicates depth, letters for tone |
| Wella | Letters and numbers, K for natural, A for ash, W for warm |
| Sally Beauty | Number for level 1-10, letters for tone |
| Matrix | Number indicates depth, letters for tone |
| Redken | Number indicates level 1-9, letters for tone |
It’s always helpful to get a professional consultation, but this breakdown of color codes takes some of the mystery out of choosing your perfect shade!
How to Choose Your Best Hair Color
With all the letters and numbers used in hair color codes, how do you pick the right shade for you? Here are some tips:
- Base it off your natural color – Choose depths and tones that align with your natural base.
- Test shades using swatches – Look at color swatches in natural light to visualize the tones.
- Consider your skin undertone – Warm tones complement warm skin, cool shades flatter cool skin.
- Think about how color fades – Lighter colors tend to fade more over time.
- Look at shade charts – Compare the numbering and lettering systems.
- Ask your stylist – They can help determine the perfect color and formula.
A consultation and strand test can take the guesswork out of choosing flattering hair color shades.
How Lighteners and Toners Are Coded
In addition to permanent and demi-permanent hair dyes, colorists use lighteners and toners to further customize hair color. These are coded differently.
Lighteners
Lighteners or bleach contain peroxide to lift the cuticle and remove pigment. Codes for lighteners include:
- 10, 20, 30, 40 Volume – Indicates percentage of peroxide, with higher for greater lightening.
- LW, XLW – Lightener with lower peroxide levels.
- Powder lighteners – Mixed by colorists to customize lifting strength.
Toners
Toners are tinted after-colors without ammonia or peroxide. They cancel unwanted tones and add shine. Levels include:
- T – Tone on base, least amount of pigment deposit
- TT – Semi toner, moderate pigment
- CT – Color toner, most pigment deposit
Letters indicate the tone such as ash, beige, or violet.
Decoding Hair Color Levels
Hair colorists use a system called leveling to determine the starting and target shade for coloring services. Here is an overview of the levels from darkest to lightest:
| Level Number | Level Name | Color Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Black | Off black and darkest brown |
| 2 | Darkest Brown | Almost black dark brown |
| 3 | Dark Brown | Very dark brunette shades |
| 4 | Medium-Dark Brown | Dark brunette |
| 5 | Medium Brown | Mid-range brunette |
| 6 | Light Brown | Brown with notable warm tones |
| 7 | Light-Medium Brown | Darkest blonde shades |
| 8 | Medium-Light Blonde | Dark beige blondes |
| 9 | Very Light Blonde | Lightest beige blondes |
| 10 | Lightest Blonde | Palest yellow/white blondes |
Hair typically has a variety of levels from roots to ends. Colorists do test strands to see what levels they are working with before coloring.
How Colorists Use Levels
Hair colorists use levels in several ways:
- To assess the starting level or natural base shade
- To determine the desired target level after coloring
- To communicate the amount of lifting or lightening needed
- To indicate the depth and intensity of toner shades
- To explain the expected fading over time
Hair can be lifted up to 3 levels gradually for a natural look. Any more requires very careful lightening to avoid damage.
Level vs. Tone
When decoding color codes, it helps to understand the difference between level and tone:
- Level refers to the depth of color from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde).
- Tone indicates the undertones that create a natural look: warm, cool, neutral, golden, ash, etc.
For example, a level 4 haircolor with an ash tone would be a 4A. A level 7 haircolor with golden undertones would be 7G. Level indicates depth while tone conveys the nuance.
How Hair Color Shades Mix and Fade
Hair color results depend on the starting level, target level, and application technique. Here is an overview of how the codes translate to results:
| Starting Level | Target Level | Result | Fading Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 | 7 | Dark to medium blonde | Golden around face |
| 7 | 9 | Bright blonde initially | Neutralizes over weeks |
| 8 | 10 | Very light blonde | Yellows without toning |
| 5 | 7 | Warm brown | Reddish over time |
| 4 | 5 | Ash brown | Muddies without toning |
Hair color specialists factor in these changes over time when selecting dyes. Retouching and toning helps keep color vibrant between appointments.
How to Read Hair Color Charts
Hair dye brands provide shade charts to showcase all the color options in their lines. Here’s how to read them:
- Levels are arranged light to dark, left to right.
- Rows represent shade families (blonde, brown, black).
- Columns show tones (neutral, cool, warm).
- Numbers indicate the depth level.
- Letters signal the primary and secondary tones.
- Model hair shows how finished shades look.
Study the charts carefully before coloring to visualize the levels and letters translated to real hair. Swatch samples on your own hair to see the shades accurately.
Things to Keep in Mind
Here are some important points to remember about hair color codes and choosing shades:
- Codes vary across brands – Make sure you check the key.
- Swatch and test first – Strand tests show how your hair takes color.
- Give your eyes a break – Look at swatches in natural lighting.
- Consider your features – Lighter shades complement fair coloring.
- Know your history – Previous color affects results.
- Remember tones shift – Hair looks different wet vs. dry.
- Level matters more than tone – Depth changes dramatically.
- Don’t over-lighten – Go gradually for healthy hair.
- Prep your hair – Remove buildup before coloring for best results.
With some understanding of the coding and terminology, you can confidently communicate with your colorist about your perfect shade!
Conclusion
Hair color codes use letters and numbers to specify exact shades, levels, and tones for predictable, beautiful results. While each brand has its own system, N, A, C, G, and W are commonly used letters indicating cool, neutral, and warm undertones. Numbers like 5N or 7A identify the depth and intensity of the color. Colors fade warmer over time, so colorists factor that into their formulations. Understanding these codes along with doing strand tests makes it easier to select flattering shades.