A color balance hair treatment is a process that helps to neutralize or correct unwanted tones in the hair. When hair is colored, especially with lightener or bleach, it can develop brassy, orange, or yellow undertones. A color balance helps to counteract those tones for a more even result.
Why color balancing is necessary
There are a few reasons why hair can develop unwanted warm undertones after lightening or coloring:
- The underlying natural pigment in hair can cause warm tones. Natural hair has a warm, yellowish pigment called melanin. When hair is lightened, those warm underlying tones can show through.
- Bleach and lightener removes color but not tone. Lightening products do not remove the natural pigment in hair, so the remaining tone is often warm and brassy.
- Color molecules can oxidize over time. As the artificial hair color molecules break down, the underlying warm tones can start to show through.
- Previous color applications can affect tone. If the hair was not fully lifted to the appropriate level, warmth may remain in the strands.
To help neutralize or cool those warm, brassy tones, a color balancing treatment is usually needed after lightening. The process helps provide a more neutral or ashy appearance to the hair.
How color balancing works
Color balancing deposits a toner or glaze that counteracts the unwanted warm tones in the hair. It works by neutralizing those yellow, orange, and red tones. Here is a look at the color theory behind how it works:
- Opposite colors on the color wheel neutralize each other. For example, blue cancels out orange tones because they are directly across from each other.
- Complementary colors counteract each other. Purple pigment neutralizes yellow tones because they are complementary.
- Cooler tones counteract warmer ones. Ash and beige tones contain hints of violet, green, and blue pigments to neutralize warm yellows, oranges, and reds.
By applying the right toner or glaze shade, color balancing can help neutralize or soften those warm, brassy undertones for a more even result.
When to use color balancing
Here are some of the most common situations when color balancing is recommended:
- After lightening or bleaching hair – Lightening hair with bleach or high-volume developers will often result in yellow or orange tones, so toning is usually required.
- If hair didn’t lift enough – If the hair still has unwanted warm tones after lightening, a toner can help neutralize them.
- To pre-tone before coloring – Toning before applying a permanent hair color can help provide a neutral base.
- If hair has uneven tones – Toners can help correct splotchy or uneven tones in the hair.
- To reduce brassiness – Neutralizing brassiness is one of the main reasons for toning. It counteracts yellow/orange hues.
- After permanent color fades – When the artificial pigment fades, warm natural pigment can show through again.
- To soften or cool tones – Toners and glazes can add a hint of coolness to overly warm hair.
Any time the hair develops unwanted yellow, orange, red, or brassy tones, a color balancing service can help rectify it.
What to use for color balancing
There are a few options when it comes to products for balancing hair color:
- Toner – This is the most common product used for color balancing. Permanent and demi-permanent toners are applied after lightening to neutralize warmth.
- Gloss or glaze – These sheer treatments add a hint of tone for subtle cooling or neutralizing effects.
- Tinted conditioner – Conditioners with special color pigments can help condition while counteracting brassiness.
- Purple shampoo – Shampoos with violet or blue tones help brighten and reduce yellow/orange hues.
- Direct dye – Semi-permanent direct dyes can be used as toners to stain and tone the hair.
The product chosen will depend on the current state of the hair and the desired result. In some cases, a permanent toner is necessary to fully neutralize unwanted tones. Other times, a subtle glaze or gloss may be ideal to gently counteract warmth. Consulting a professional colorist is the best way to determine which type of product is appropriate.
How to apply toner at home
It is possible to apply a toner at home to help maintain your color between salon visits. Here are some application tips:
- Choose the right toner shade based on your current hair color and the tones you want to neutralize. Ask your colorist for a recommendation.
- Mix the toner according to the instructions with the provided developer or with hydrogen peroxide.
- Wear gloves to apply the mixed toner evenly throughout clean, dry hair.
- Develop for the recommended time based on the toner chosen, usually 5 to 30 minutes.
- Rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear. Use a sulfate-free shampoo to remove toner buildup.
- Only apply to pre-lightened hair. Do not use toner on dark, unlightened hair.
It’s best to strand test the toner first to ensure you get the desired effect before applying it to all of your hair.
Common problems when toning hair
While toning can be extremely effective for neutralizing unwanted tones, there are some things that can go wrong. Here are some potential issues and how to avoid them:
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven results | Product not applied evenly | Work through hair methodically to ensure full, even coverage |
| Over-toned or off tone | Toner shade too dark or wrong undertone | Use a lighter toner or one with the right undertones |
| Patchy tones | Hair not lifted evenly | Fully lighten hair first for even canvas before toning |
| Dull, ashy result | Toner left on too long | Watch development time closely and don’t overlap with permanent color |
Having a professional colorist assess your hair and recommend the ideal toner product and formulation is the best way to minimize issues.
Common toner shades and what they do
Toner comes in a wide range of shades and depths to create different effects. Here are some of the most common toner shades and what they help achieve:
| Toner Shade | Use |
|---|---|
| Violet | Neutralizes yellow tones |
| Blue | Cancels out orange or brassy tones |
| Green | Counteracts red tones |
| Ash | Adds a cool, silver look to hair |
| Beige | Creates a warm, neutral blonde |
| Silver | Creates an icy, luminous result |
| Gold | Enhances warm, golden tones |
It’s critical to choose the correct undertone of toner to target your specific color issues. A professional can recommend the right shade.
Does toner wash out?
How long a toner lasts depends on the type of product used:
- Permanent toner – Provides longer-lasting neutralizing effects that don’t wash out immediately. Typically lasts 4-6 weeks.
- Demi-permanent toner – Provides subtle toner effects that last through several washes. Usually lasts 4-12 shampoos.
- Semi-permanent toner- More temporary toning that washes out within several shampoos. Often used for quick correction.
- Gloss/glaze – Very subtle, sheer toner results that last 2-4 shampoos.
To keep the hair color balanced, toners generally need to be reapplied regularly as the artificial pigments fade. Using a tinted shampoo or conditioner can help prolong toner results between full applications.
Can you tone dyed hair?
Yes, it is possible to use toner on dyed hair. However, the toner chosen must be compatible with the type of hair dye:
- Permanent dye – Can be toned with permanent or demi-permanent toner.
- Semi-permanent dye – Use a semi-permanent or demi-permanent toner.
- Temporary dye – May require a washout before toning.
It is not recommended to use permanent toner over temporary or semi-permanent dye. The toner may react adversely with the dye molecules. Consult a professional to determine the best toning approach for your particular dyed hair situation.
Color balancing for different hair colors
Here is a look at how color balancing can help achieve different hair color goals:
Blonde Hair
- Use violet-based toner to neutralize yellow tones.
- Try blue or silver toner to combat brassiness.
- Beige adds warmth, while ash provides a cool effect.
Bleached Hair
- Neutralize yellow with violet or blue-violet toner.
- Eliminate orange with blue toner.
- Green or blue-green toner will correct reddish tones.
Highlighted Hair
- Violet toner masks yellow banding between highlights.
- Warm golden toner creates a cohesive look.
- Avoid ash toner to prevent visible regrowth lines.
Gray Hair
- Blue toner neutralizes yellowing as gray hair loses pigment.
- Violet adds brightness and neutralizes brassiness.
- Silver enhances the luminous, shiny look of gray strands.
Conclusion
Color balancing with toner or glaze is an important step in the hair coloring process. It helps counteract the unwanted warm, brassy tones that can arise during lightening or coloring. By neutralizing those yellow, orange, and red hues, toners provide a more even, consistent color result. When done properly, it makes hair color appear vibrant, natural, and healthy. Consulting a professional colorist is the best way to determine the right toner and technique for your particular hair needs and goals.
