A French collar dress shirt, also known as a cutaway collar shirt, is a classic men’s dress shirt with a distinctive collar shape. The French collar has straight points and a narrow spread between the collar points. This type of collar creates a clean, crisp look when worn with a tie.
History of the French Collar
The French collar dates back to the mid-19th century and was popularized by Beau Brummell, an iconic arbiter of men’s fashion in Regency England. Brummell preferred stark, minimalist styles over the ruffled extravagance of men’s fashion at the time. He pioneered the modern men’s suit and helped popularize the understated French collar.
By the early 20th century, the French collar was a staple of formal menswear. It remains a standard collar choice for dress shirts to this day. While trends come and go, the versatile French collar remains in style.
Identifying Features of the French Collar
Here are the key identifying features of a French collar dress shirt:
- Narrow spread between collar points (2.5″-3.5″)
- Straight or slightly curved collar points
- Clean, crisp corners
- Straight collar band
- Lack of collar pins, tabs, or ornamentation
The rigid shape and lack of ornamentation gives the French collar shirt a polished, refined look. This distinguishes it from more casual button-down collars or elaborate cutaway collars.
Contrasting the French Collar with Other Dress Shirt Collars
Here is how the French collar differs from some other popular dress shirt collar styles:
| Collar Type | Spread | Points | Ornamentation |
|---|---|---|---|
| French collar | Narrow | Straight | Minimal |
| Cutaway collar | Wide | Straight or flared | Usually none |
| Wing collar | Moderate | Turned outwards | Collar bones |
| Button-down collar | Moderate | Rounded points | Collar buttons |
As you can see, the lack of ornamentation and narrow spread distinctly identifies the French collar.
How to Wear a French Collar Dress Shirt
Here are some tips for wearing a French collar shirt stylishly:
- Pair it with a necktie – the narrow spread perfectly frames a necktie knot.
- For formal wear, opt for a Windsor or half-Windsor knot.
- For business wear, pair it with a simple four-in-hand knot.
- Wear it buttoned up – French collar shirts are meant to be worn with a tie knotted at the collar.
- Match the shirt with a fitted blazer or suit jacket.
- Choose a solid or subtly patterned tie – loud prints or wide ties conflict with the shirt’s refined style.
Avoid wearing a French collar shirt without a tie, as this can look imbalanced. The clean lines and lack of ornamentation are designed specifically to complement necktie knots.
French Collar Shirt Etiquette & Formality
Some key points about the formality and etiquette of wearing French collar shirts:
- French collar shirts convey formal style. They are standard business attire for many industries.
- The are acceptable for black tie events when worn with a formal bow tie and tuxedo.
- They are too formal for casual wear – save them for formal occasions, not everyday use.
- French cuffs are traditional, but not required. Barrel cuffs are also acceptable.
- As formalwear, opt for high-quality, pressed cotton or Sea Island cotton fabrics.
- White and pale blue are the most formal French collar shirt colors.
In summary, the French collar commands formality and respect when worn properly. Take care to pair it with formal trousers, polished shoes, and coordinates suits or blazers.
Advantages & Disadvantages of the French Collar
Here are some key advantages and disadvantages to consider about French collar dress shirts:
Advantages
- Sleek, refined, versatile style
- Ideal for framing neckties
- Looks professional and formal
- Classic style remains fashionable
- Crisp appearance due to stiff construction
Disadvantages
- Too formal and restrictive for casual wear
- Requires coordination with ties and formal jackets
- Does not work well unbuttoned due to narrow spread
- Limited diversity – white and blue are staple colors
- Requires ironing and starching to maintain crisp shape
In weighing these factors, the French collar dress shirt is ideal for formal business or social occasions that require professional attire. However, it lacks versatility for casual everyday use.
Where to Buy Quality French Collar Dress Shirts
Here are some recommended retailers to shop for top-quality French collar dress shirts:
- Brooks Brothers – An American staple known for Oxford button-downs and professional attire.
- Charles Tyrwhitt – A British retailer with excellent formal and business wear.
- Kamakura Shirts – Japanese brand renowned for craftsmanship and fit.
- Ledbury – Offers modern takes on classic men’s shirting.
- Proper Cloth – Custom-made shirts with numerous collar options.
When shopping, pay attention to details like stitching, buttonholes, and cotton quality. Seek out brands with a reputation for constructing stiff, shaped collars that will hold their form all day. With proper care and laundering, a quality French collar shirt can last for years of wear.
Caring for Your French Collar Shirts
Here are some tips for keeping your French collar shirts looking crisp and fresh:
- Follow garment care instructions – most are dry clean only due to starching.
- Use medium heat for ironing and starch the collars and cuffs every few wears.
- Use a shaped shirt board or collar insert when drying to maintain form.
- Wash shirts once every 4-5 wears for optimal longevity.
- Avoid overwashing, as this breaks down shirt fibers and construction.
- Replace collar stays regularly to maintain straight points.
- Dry clean whenever stains develop – do not let them set.
With proper laundering and care between wears, your quality French collar shirts could last for a decade or longer while maintaining their refined style.
Conclusion
With its clean lines and minimalist elegance, the French collar shirt is a wardrobe staple for the refined gentleman. Pair it with a necktie and blazer to achieve a polished, formal aesthetic for business and special occasions. Seek out quality materials and construction to maximize durability and maintain the iconic straight collar shape. Treat your French collar shirts with care and they will retain their crisp form wear after wear, keeping you looking stylish for years to come.
