Nail polish, also known as nail enamel or nail varnish, is a lacquer that can be applied to the fingernails or toenails to decorate, protect the nail plate, and/or prolong periods between manicures and pedicures. Modern nail enamel consists of many ingredients that work together to give it the desired consistency, durability, color, and shine.
Main Ingredients
There are four main ingredients that make up the basic structure of nail polish:
- Film-forming agents
- Plasticizers
- Solvents
- Colorants
Let’s take a closer look at each of these key components.
Film-Forming Agents
Film-forming agents, also known as resins or binders, are the main ingredients that form the base of the nail polish. They create a durable and flexible film that adheres to the nail plate when the solvents evaporate. The most common film-forming agents used in nail polish are:
- Nitrocellulose: The primary film-forming polymer in most nail polishes. It comes in different grades that determine the hardness and durability of the polish film.
- Acrylates: Polymers like methacrylate polymer help the polish adhere properly and create a glossy film.
- Tosylamide formaldehyde resin: Also known as Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin, it improves adhesion and helps the lacquer film form.
The film-forming agent usually makes up 5% to 15% of the total nail polish formulation.
Plasticizers
Plasticizers are substances added to nail polish to increase the flexibility and prevent the nail lacquer from becoming brittle. They keep the polish smooth and help prevent it from chipping or cracking. Some common plasticizers used are:
- Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP): One of the most widely used plasticizers, however it has been banned in the EU and restricted in the US due to health concerns.
- Camphor: A naturally derived plasticizer that replaces banned DBP.
- Dimethicone: Provides shine and flexibility without the risks of DBP.
- Tosylamide: A plasticizer and secondary film former.
Plasticizers typically make up around 10-15% of a nail polish formulation.
Solvents
Solvents allow the nail polish to evenly flow onto the nail plate before evaporating and leaving behind the resin film. Some common solvents in nail polish include:
- Ethyl acetate: A fast-drying solvent that allows quick film formation.
- Butyl acetate: Helps regulate the evaporation of the solvent.
- Isopropyl alcohol: Prevents clumping and helps evenly dissolve the ingredients.
- Toluene: Enhances application properties but has risks associated with toxicity. Banned in the EU.
Solvents usually make up 60-75% of the total formula.
Colorants
Colorants and pigments are responsible for the huge range of colors and effects possible with nail polish. Some examples include:
- Titanium dioxide: Provides opacity and whiteness.
- Iron oxides: Create red, yellow, brown, and black shades.
- Mica: Adds shimmer and pearlescence.
- Chromium oxide greens: Impart bright greens.
- Ferric ferrocyanide/ferric ammonium ferrocyanide: Also known as Prussian blue, provides deep blues.
Along with other organic pigments and dyes, colorants make up around 5-10% of most nail polish formulas.
Additional Ingredients
In addition to the four main components, most nail polishes also contain some of the following:
- UV absorbers: Help protect against UV damage and prevent yellowing.
- Thickening agents: Adjust viscosity, such as bentonite clay or fumed silica.
- Suspending agents: Prevent pigments from settling, like stearalkonium hectorite.
- Biocides: Act as preservatives and prevent bacterial growth.
- Fragrances: Provide scents, usually derived from essential oils.
These additional ingredients each comprise around 0.1-5% of the full nail polish recipe.
Types of Nail Polish
While the basic chemistry of most nail polishes is similar, the exact ingredients and their proportions vary depending on the desired color, texture, and properties of the lacquer. Here are some of the main nail polish types:
Regular Nail Polish
This is the most common variety found in drugstores and salons. It provides color with a glossy, high-shine finish. The ingredients are balanced to be long-wearing. Regular polish is easy to apply but requires more frequent touch-ups compared to gel or shellac polishes.
Gel/Shellac Nail Polish
Gel polish contains more plasticizers for flexibility. It is cured under UV or LED lights, allowing it to set rock-hard and last 2-3 weeks without chipping or smudging. Gel polish can be soaked off rather than removed with nail polish remover.
Acrylic Nail Polish
Acrylic polish has a higher acrylate content to make it extremely durable and long-lasting. It has a thicker consistency than regular polish. Acrylics form bonds between nail layers to create hardness and strength.
Water-Based Nail Polish
As the name suggests, these nail polishes use more water than solvents in their formulation. This makes them lower in VOC’s (volatile organic compounds), less odorous, and better for people sensitive to chemicals. However, water-based polishes tend to be thinner and less shiny.
“Toxin-Free”/Non-Toxic Nail Polish
These polishes exclude chemicals like toluene, formaldehyde, phthalates, and xylene. Instead, they use “safer” plasticizers like dimethyl succinate and ethyl acetate as the solvent. However, risks depend on dose and concentration, so they aren’t necessarily safer.
Quick-Drying Nail Polish
Specially designed to dry quickly, usually within a minute, for easy application. They have a high ratio of volatile solvents that evaporate fast to let the polish set rapidly.
| Nail Polish Type | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Regular | High shine, color variety, inexpensive, lower durability |
| Gel/Shellac | Harder finish, longer wear, requires light curing |
| Acrylic | Thick, durable, hard, long-lasting |
| Water-based | Low odor, fewer chemicals, less shiny |
| “Non-toxic” | Avoids certain chemicals, still has risks |
| Quick-drying | Fast evaporation, easy application |
Nail Polish Safety
While nail polish ingredients are considered safe at typical usage levels, there are still some risks with certain chemicals:
- Phthalates like DBP have been linked to birth defects, hormone disruption, and fertility issues.
- Formaldehyde is a known human carcinogen when inhaled, less danger from polish.
- Toluene can irritate lungs, skin, and eyes while impacting the nervous system.
- Acrylates arePrimary eye and skin irritants.
Many brands now make polishes free of these concerning ingredients. It’s also important to ensure proper ventilation and avoid overexposure when using nail polish.
Conclusion
Modern nail polish relies on a mix of film formers, plasticizers, solvents, and color pigments to produce a durable and decorative coating for nails. While traditional options use potentially harmful ingredients like phthalates and toluene, safer natural and vegan options are becoming more widely available. As with any beauty product, it’s smart to be aware of what exactly is going onto your body.
