Hair color is made up of different elements that work together to create an overall look. The level and tone are two of the most important factors that determine what your hair color will look like. Understanding the difference between the two is essential for achieving your desired shade.
The level refers to how light or dark the hair is on a scale from 1 to 10. The lower the number, the darker the hair, while higher levels indicate lighter hair. Tone describes the underlying pigment or hue of the hair and can range from warm to cool. While level controls lightness, tone controls the actual color.
By altering the level and tone, hair colorists can create many different styles. For example, the same level 7 hair can look completely different depending on if it has warm reddish tones or cool ash tones. So although two people may have the same “shade” of blonde, their hair colors can look very distinct based on tone variations.
Understanding Hair Level
The hair level system ranks color from black (level 1) to lightest blonde (level 10). Here is an overview of the levels from darkest to lightest:
| Level | Description |
|---|---|
| Level 1 | Black |
| Level 2 | Darkest brown |
| Level 3 | Dark brown |
| Level 4 | Medium brown |
| Level 5 | Light brown |
| Level 6 | Dark blonde |
| Level 7 | Medium blonde |
| Level 8 | Light blonde |
| Level 9 | Very light blonde |
| Level 10 | Lightest blonde |
As you move up the levels from 1 to 10, the cuticle layers open more allowing more light to reflect off the hair. With each level, the hair becomes increasingly lighter.
Many people mistakenly equate low levels with “dark hair” and high levels with “light hair.” But notice that level 5 is still considered light brown. The level system encompasses natural hair colors from black to platinum blonde.
It’s important to note that natural hair color typically ranges between levels 1-7. The very lightest shades of blonde at levels 9-10 are only achieved through hair lightening and coloring processes.
Common Hair Levels
Here are some of the most common natural hair levels:
Level 1-3: Dark brown to black hair. Asian and Mediterranean hair commonly falls in this range.
Level 4-5: Medium to light brown hair. This encompasses hair colors like chestnut brown and caramel brown.
Level 6-7: Dark to medium blonde hair. Most natural blondes have hair that falls in this level range.
Again, levels 8-10 are generally not natural hair colors but require bleaching or highlighting to reach those very light shades.
Determining Your Hair’s Level
To find out your natural hair level:
– Examine the hair in natural sunlight. Indoor lighting can distort the true color.
– Check the roots, as this is the untinted natural level. Avoid looking at ends as those are more prone to sun exposure and processing damage.
– Hold hair swatches up to your roots to identify which level they match most closely. Swatches are available at beauty supply stores.
– Consult with a colorist. Stylists are trained to analyze hair levels accurately. They can often pinpoint it by eye.
Keep in mind that hair level varies across the head. The underlayers and crown area tend to be darker, while the top layers and hairline are lighter. So you may have different levels present.
What Hair Tone Means
After determining the hair level, the next step is identifying the tone. While level controls lightness, tone refers to the actual pigment hue or color cast. Think warm, cool, and neutral.
Hair tone is categorized into these main groups:
Warm: Hair with warm, golden undertones. Warm tones include golden blonde, ginger red, and honey brown shades.
Cool: Hair with cool, ashy undertones. Cool hair has hints of blue, violet, or silver tones. Examples include platinum blonde and smoky brown.
Neutral: No dominating warm or cool pigments. Neutral hair has a balance of underlying gold and ash tones. Medium brown and classic blonde are neutral.
Altering the tone makes a big impact on how the color is perceived. A level 7 warm blonde looks completely different from a level 7 cool blonde, even though the base shade is the same “blonde” level.
Here are some examples of how the same level changes based on tone:
| Level | Warm Tone | Cool Tone |
|---|---|---|
| Level 6 | Golden blonde | Ashy blonde |
| Level 4 | Golden brown | Mushroom brown |
| Level 8 | Buttery blonde | Icy blonde |
Altering tone can minimize brassiness, enhance shine, and optimize certain skin undertones. So both level and tone must be evaluated during hair color formulation.
Identifying Your Natural Tone
Determining hair tone takes some practice but here are some tips:
– Examine hair in natural sunlight. Look for hints of gold, red, violet, ash, or silver.
– Drape cool and warm swatches around your face. See which complements your complexion best.
– Stylists use professional techniques like staining hair strands with toner to reveal undertones.
– If you have an overall warm complexion with yellow/olive skin, your hair likely runs warm. Cool complexions often coincide with cooler toned hair. But this is not always the case!
– Gray hairs are a neutralizer. The more grays present, the more neutralized the tone typically appears.
Keep in mind that hair tone is not always evenly distributed. Different areas of the head may pick up different pigments. But determining the dominant tone will help guide appropriate coloring.
How Level and Tone Impact Coloring
Both level and tone significantly impact how hair color develops and the results you can achieve. Here are some key considerations:
Lightening
When lightening hair, the stylist must lift the level while taking tone into account. Lifting dark hair often introduces unwanted warm tones like orange and red.
To counteract this, colorists use toners and glazes during the lightening process to neutralize warmth and achieve the desired shade. The proper application of toners is key when creating cool blonde and ash brown hues.
Color Depositing
When depositing color to darken or intensify tone, the existing level and tone must be factored in.
Putting an ash brown shade over warm hair will result in gray or muddy color. Conversely, applying warm copper over cool toned hair can look brassy rather than rich.
Experienced colorists will “fill” the hair with preliminary gloss or glaze to prepare the base for the target shade.
Coverage
The darker and warmer the natural hair level and tone, the more it impacts how vivid or true-to-tone a color shade will appear.
Light cool hair provides the ideal blank canvas for vivid colors like reds, berries, and coppers. But the same red dye on dark warm hair will look darkened and muddied.
The hair’s starting point always influences how processed colors develop. Stylists assess this during consultations.
Damage & Porosity
Existing damage and porosity alter how hair absorbs and retains applied color.
Porous hair quickly absorbs color but struggles to retain it. Overly porous hair may drink up dye but become dull and faded weeks later as the color washes out.
On the other hand, damaged but non-porous hair is often resistant to absorbing color. This can make it hard to achieve even coverage and penetration.
Analyzing porosity and texture is key for colorists when tailoring the formulation and timing to achieve long-lasting results.
Using Levels and Tones Together
Hair color formulations specify both the level and tone. For example, a formulation might read:
Base shade: 7N (Level 7 Neutral)
Highlights: 10A (Level 10 Ash)
This tells the colorist to use a level 7 neutral brown as the overall base with ribbons of level 10 ash blonde woven through.
Let’s look at some more examples:
| Formulation | Translation |
|---|---|
| Base: 5G | Level 5 Golden brown base color |
| Lowlights: 3N | Level 3 Neutral brown lowlights |
| Gloss: Clear + 7VV | Clear gloss with level 7 Intense Violet Violet toner |
Hair color is multidimensional. Using levels and tones together enables colorists to create gorgeous dimension, BALAYAGE, ombré, and dynamic highlights.
Many clients think of color solely in generic terms like “brown” or “blonde” rather than nuanced formulations. A skilled colorist will consult with you on your desired look then translate that into precise levels and tones to bring your vision to life.
Conclusion
Understanding the central color principles of level and tone provides tremendous insight into achieving your ideal shade. While level controls lightness, tone determines the actual pigment hue.
Lighter levels don’t necessarily equate to “blonde” just as darker levels aren’t only for “brunettes”. The full spectrum hair color possibilities open up once you grasp the color levels 1-10 and the impact of undertones.
Virtually any hair color can be broken down into its foundational level and tone markers. Communicating using this language provides valuable guidance during color consultations. Rather than just saying “make me blonde” or “add some highlights”, you can reference specific levels and tones to customize your look.
Equipped with this knowledge, you can actively participate in the process for spectacular, dimensional color that perfectly suits your complexion and style vision. You’ll have the vocabulary and understanding to express not just the look you want, but also why you want it. With a expert colorist by your side, you’ll have the confidence to go boldly glamorous or gently enhance your natural beauty.
