The traditional dress of Japan is the kimono. The kimono is a T-shaped wrapped garment with set loose long sleeves and a long skirt. The kimono is usually wrapped around the body and secured in place with an obi, or sash. There are many types of kimono worn depending on the occasion, age, and marital status of the wearer. Some of the most well-known types of kimono include the furisode, houmongi, yukata, and uchikake.
The kimono emerged during Japan’s Heian period (794-1185 AD) and became increasingly stylized over the subsequent centuries. While the kimono was once everyday wear for all classes and genders in Japan, it is now most often worn for special occasions such as weddings, funerals, tea ceremonies, and other formal events. The kimono remains an enduring symbol of traditional Japanese culture and fashion.
History and Development of the Kimono
The prototype of the kimono was called the kosode, which emerged during Japan’s Heian period (794-1185 AD). During this time, there were distinctions in the size of sleeves and layers between aristocratic garb and normal wear. Kosode of the time had a narrow body and smaller sleeves. Over many centuries, kosode evolved into the shape known today as the T-shaped kimono.
Several important developments occurred from the late-1600s into the early 1900s that shaped the kimono:
| 1686 | After a sumptuary law, wealthy merchants gain the right to wear more colorful kosode, driving demand for dyeing techniques and weaving innovations. |
| Mid-1700s | Full-width bolts of cotton fabric become available, allowing wider wrapped garments. Kosode sleeves also widen. |
| Late 1700s | The T-shaped kimono emerges as a wrapped coat with set-in sleeves and a long skirt. |
| 1870s | The government encourages Western dress. Kimono wearing becomes limited to special occasions and festivals. |
| Early 1900s | Western clothing dominates everyday wear. Kimono design patterns evolve into modern forms. |
The kimono has gone through slower changes in shape and style in the last hundred years. Today, the basic T-shaped design remains largely the same as its early 20th century form. However, there have been continuing innovations in fabrics, patterns, and accessories.
Parts of the Kimono
The kimono consists of several parts that come together to form the T-shaped garment:
Sode – The very large, set-in sleeves that characterize the kimono. Kimono sleeves are attached to the body of the garment at the shoulder but leave ample space for arm movement.
Mihaba – The main body of the kimono. This is a single straight panel of fabric folded over the body. The mihaba determines the overall length of the garment.
Maemigoro – The front panel formed by the fold and overlap of the mihaba. This panel hangs straight down on both sides of the body.
Okumi – The rear panel formed by the fold and overlap of the mihaba. This panel spreads out into a wide skirt.
Douura – A small opening under one sleeve allowing the wearer to move the arms. The opening is tied shut with removable cords.
Eri – The collar area around the neck. The fold and overlap of the mihaba forms a narrow collar.
Obi – A sash of stiff fabric tied around the waist over the kimono. The obi keeps the kimono in place and completes the overall shape.
Obijime – A narrow cord used to tie the obi in place. It helps hold the obi tightly in position.
Obiage – A scarf-like piece of fabric tucked under the obi to hide the ends and maintain stiffness.
Together, these different elements create the distinctive shape and drape of the kimono. There are also undergarments like the juban (undershirt) worn underneath.
Types of Kimono
There are many varieties of kimono that differ based on the wearer, occasion, and season:
Furisode – A style for unmarried young women with vivid colors and extremely long sleeves. The furisode is the most formal kimono for younger women.
Houmongi – An elegant style worn by married and unmarried women. It has shorter sleeves and less vivid colors and patterns.
Yukata – An unlined summer kimono usually made of cotton. The yukata is very casual and often worn to outdoor festivals.
Tomesode – A formal black kimono with colorful designs along the hem worn by married women.
Komon – An informal kimono with small, repeated patterns all over the garment surface.
Irotomesode – A formal kimono with colorful patterns only below the waistline worn by married women.
Tsukesage – A formal style with modest patterns below the waist worn by married women.
Uchikake – A highly decorative over-kimono worn by the bride in a wedding ceremony.
Mofuku – Solid black formal kimono worn during mourning and funerals.
Junihitoe – A twelve-layered formal court costume worn in the Heian period by noblewomen.
The specific characteristics of the occasion and the wearer dictate what type of kimono is appropriate. The colors, patterns, and accessories all convey important cultural meaning.
Kimono Fabrics
Two main fabrics are used in kimono making:
Nishijin Weaves – Fine silk fabrics handcrafted in the Nishijin district of Kyoto. Nishijin weaves include advanced techniques like brocade and float weave. These are very expensive luxury fabrics.
Meisen Kimono – Silk kimono textiles mass-produced on mechanical looms. Meisen kimono fabrics became widely available by the early 20th century. The patterns often feature abstract flowers, plants, and landscapes.
Here are some other fabrics used in kimono making:
| Chirimen | Crinkled silk fabric. |
| Rinzu | Silk fabric woven with very fine warp and weft yarns. |
| Saten | Smooth, shiny silk. |
| Dupioni | Silk made from double cocoons. |
| Shusu | Silks derived from wild silkworms. |
| Sha | Silk/hemp or silk/wool blended fabrics. |
| Ro | Silk gauze ideal for warm weather kimono. |
High quality silk fabrics are essential for the beautiful drape and sheen of kimono. But cheaper mass-produced kimono often use synthetic fibers today.
Kimono Styles for Men
Kimono are worn somewhat differently between the genders. Some key points about men’s kimono include:
– Men originally wore shorter kimono styles as undergarments. Longer styles emerged later.
– Mens’ kimono sleeves are attached further down the arm, leaving less empty sleeve space.
– The flap in front is left over the right side, opposite from women’s kimono.
– Traditional men’s kimono are more subdued in color and pattern.
– Accessories like haori jackets, hakama pants, and obijime cords complete men’s outfits.
– Common styles for men are the kinagashi, haori, hakama, and yukata.
While women’s kimono remain the better known Japanese traditional dress, men have their own associated garment traditions. They play important roles in ceremonies, festivals, and rituals.
How to Wear a Kimono
Putting on a kimono properly involves wrapping, tying, and folding in specific ways:
– The juban undergarment is put on first. It protects the outer kimono fabric from sweat and perfume.
– Next, the kimono is wrapped around the body from left to right, leaving the collar at the nape of the neck.
– The overlapping front panels are folded from right to left. Extra fabric is tucked into the waist.
– The obi is wrapped around the body over the kimono and tied in front. The obijime cord secures it in place.
– The obiage is folded and tucked under the obi to hide ends and add definition.
– Appropriate accent pieces like zori sandals and hair ornaments complete the outfit.
Putting on a kimono takes practice to master properly. Professional kimono dressers are often hired to help with involved outfits like wedding kimono.
Modern and Fashion Usage
While the kimono is not an everyday garment in Japan today, it still appears in various modern contexts:
| Cultural festivals | Yukata kimono are very popular to wear in summer festivals and firework shows. |
| Weddings | Brides traditionally wear uchikake kimono at their wedding ceremonies. |
| Coming of age | Young women celebrating their 20th birthdays often wear furisode kimono. |
| Graduations | College graduates may wear hakama kimono when graduating. |
| Art and theater | Kimono are worn by geisha, kabuki actors, and Buddhist monks. |
The kimono also appears as an influential garment in Japanese fashion. Contemporary designers create modern clothing inspired by the unique elements of the kimono. These include vibrant prints, loose shapes, sleeves, and fabric mixing. The kimono offers endless inspiration as a historical garment.
Conclusion
The elegant kimono stands out as one of Japan’s most recognizable cultural icons. While the basic T-shaped design remains little changed over the centuries, the kimono continues to reinvent itself through new fabrics, patterns, and accessory pairings. The kimono may no longer be everyday apparel, but it remains deeply woven into the tapestry of Japanese identity and tradition. When properly worn, the kimono is a beautiful window into Japanese ideals of form, harmony, and artistic expression.