The Redken Shades EQ numbering system is a way for colorists to identify and mix hair color shades. Redken Shades EQ is a professional permanent hair color line that allows colorists to custom-blend precise shades for their clients. The numbering system helps organize the wide range of shade options into a logical framework.
Overview of Redken Shades EQ
Redken Shades EQ (EQ stands for Equalizing) is an innovative hair color system created by Redken. It was launched in 2013 as an upgrade to Redken’s previous IQ system. Here are some key facts about Shades EQ:
- It offers permanent, demi-permanent, and gloss hair color options.
- The permanent colors use ME+ technology with a low-ammonia formula for rich, long-lasting color with up to 100% gray coverage.
- The demi-permanent colors contain lower levels of developer for less commitment with fade-resistant color.
- The gloss colors are translucent toners used for refreshing color between salon visits.
- Over 100 intermixable shades are available.
- Protein and ceramide enriched conditioners are built into each formulation.
- It allows for uniform predictable results and custom blending per the stylist’s formulation.
This advanced hair color system gives stylists immense flexibility and control when coloring clients’ hair. The numbering system is a key component that makes the mixing and formulation process intuitive.
The Shades EQ Numbering System
The Redken Shades EQ numbering system assigns numbers and letters to identify each shade in the color line. Here is an overview of what the different parts of the shade codes mean:
Base Shade Intensity
The first number in the shade code identifies the base shade intensity on a scale of 1 to 10:
- 1-3: Darkest black and brown shades
- 4-6: Medium brown and dark blonde shades
- 7-8: Medium blonde shades
- 9-10: Very light blonde and lightest blonde shades
As the number increases, the base shade intensity lightens. For example, a 5 shade would be darker than a 7 shade.
Undertone
The letter following the number identifies the undertone:
- N = Neutral
- G = Gold / Golden
- A = Ash
- C = Cool
This letter indicates whether the shade has warm, cool, or neutral tones. For example, 5N would be a medium brown with neutral undertones.
Secondary Tones
Some shades have a second letter that specifies secondary tone:
- V = Vivid (for intense or bright tones)
- M = Muted or Matte (for softer hues)
For example, a shade code of 8GV would be a light blonde with golden vivid (very warm and bright) undertones.
Special Series
Some shades are part of special series with a third letter code:
- RR = Reflective Red Series (for copper or red tones)
- VG = Vibrant Gold Series (for bright gold tones)
For example, a code of 7CCVG would be medium blonde shade with cool undertones and vibrant gold highlights.
Level Number Conversions
The numbering system also corresponds to standard hair color levels from 1 to 10. This helps stylists translate between different systems.
| Shades EQ Number | Standard Level |
|---|---|
| 1 | 1 |
| 2 | 2 |
| 3 | 3 |
| 4 | 4 |
| 5 | 5 |
| 6 | 6 |
| 7 | 7 |
| 8 | 8 |
| 9 | 9 |
| 10 | 10 |
As shown in the table, the Shades EQ numbering directly corresponds to the 1-10 level system commonly used to classify hair color depth and lightness.
Mixing and Formulating
With an understanding of the Shades EQ numbering system, stylists can easily mix and formulate hair color for their clients. Here are some tips for mixing Shades EQ hair color:
Choosing a Base Shade
- Select a base shade intensity number closest to the client’s natural level.
- For gray coverage, choose a shade intensity the same level or one shade lighter than natural.
- To lighten hair, choose shades with higher numbers than the current level.
- To darken hair, choose shades with lower numbers than current level.
Selecting an Undertone
- Choose a neutral undertone (N) to match the client’s natural tones.
- Pick gold/golden (G) tones to add warmth and counteract brassiness.
- Choose an ash (A) undertone to neutralize warmth and prevent brassiness.
- Select cool (C) tones to minimize unwanted warmth in the hair.
Including Modifiers
- Add a vivid (V) or muted (M) modifier to intensify or soften the shade result.
- Incorporate a reflective (RR) tone for brighter color effects.
- Use a vibrant gold (VG) tone to punch up shine and vibrancy.
Always perform a strand test to confirm the formula results before applying to full hair.
Decoding Shade Codes
With practice, stylists can learn to interpret the Shades EQ color codes quickly. Here are some examples to demonstrate decoding shade codes:
- 3N – This would be a very dark brown base with neutral undertones.
- 8A – This indicates light blonde shades with an ash toner to prevent brassiness.
- 6GV – This is a medium brown with golden vivid tones for extra warmth and vibrancy.
- 10VVG – This would be an ultra-light blonde with very vivid golden tones for a bright result.
- 5GM – This is a medium brown shade with muted, soft golden tones.
With practice decoding the numbering system, stylists can translate shade codes into color formulations confidently.
The Redken Chromatics System
Redken also offers another professional permanent color line called Redken Chromatics. This color formulation system uses a similar numbering code to Shades EQ for identifying shades. Here is an overview:
- The first number still indicates the shade intensity level from 1 to 10.
- The letters have slightly different meaning:
- N = Neutral
- NN = Natural Neutral
- A = Ash
- G = Gold
- C = Copper
- V = Violet
- Modifiers like “M” for muted are still used.
- Special designations like “SF” for Soft Black are used.
While not identical, the Chromatics numbering system is very similar. This allows stylists familiar with Shades EQ to easily navigate Chromatics shades as well.
Benefits of the Shades EQ Numbering System
The Redken Shades EQ numbering system offers many benefits for professional hair colorists:
- Organization – It allows the wide range of shades to be categorized in a logical, orderly fashion.
- Coding – The numbers and letters encode useful information about each shade’s intensity, undertone and characteristics.
- Simplicity – The system makes complex color formulation easy and intuitive for stylists.
- Precision – It enables exact shade replication, consistency and customization every time.
- Flexibility – Stylists can intermix shades and modifiers seamlessly.
- Communication – Colorists can decode formulas simply by reading the shade codes.
Overall, the well-designed numbering system makes Redken Shades EQ an extremely functional and versatile professional permanent coloring system.
Conclusion
In summary, the Redken Shades EQ numbering system assigns codes to each shade in their permanent hair color line. The numbers indicate the shade intensity or depth, while letters identify the undertone and color characteristics. This allows colorists to easily select, customize and communicate exact hair color formulations to meet clients’ needs. The logical framework enables endless creativity while ensuring consistent, predictable results. For professional hair colorists, understanding and utilizing the Shades EQ numbering system is a critical skill for success.
