Native American necklaces have been an important part of indigenous cultures for centuries. They are often seen as sacred objects that hold symbolic meaning and connect the wearer to their community and beliefs. There are various types of Native American necklaces, representing different tribes, regions, and purposes. Generally, Native American necklaces served spiritual, ceremonial, and decorative functions in tribes across North America. Understanding the origins and meanings behind these necklaces provides insight into the rich cultural heritage of Native peoples.
Types of Native American Necklaces
There are many different types of traditional necklaces created and worn by Native American tribes. Some of the most common and significant include:
Chokers – These snug-fitting necklaces sit high on the neck. They were often beaded into various patterns and widths. Chokers were popular among many tribes, including the Navajo and Cherokee.
Bone and shell necklaces – Necklaces made from materials like bone, shell, and coral were common in coastal regions. The Cherokee often used shell beads, while plains tribes like the Cheyenne used bison and elk bones. These materials held spiritual significance.
Silver and turquoise jewelry – Intricate silver work with turquoise gems became popular after contact with Europeans. The Navajo were renowned silversmiths, often combining silver and turquoise in their necklaces.
Wampum necklaces – These were made with sacred shell beads by northeastern tribes like the Iroquois and Lenni Lenape. Purple and white wampum beads carried important cultural meaning.
Bear claw necklaces – Plains Indian tribes like the Sioux and Cheyenne wore necklaces decorated with bear claws to symbolize strength and protect the wearer. They were marks of a warrior.
Beaded floral necklaces – Decorative floral patterns were popular for women’s necklaces, especially among eastern woodland tribes like the Cherokee and Iroquois who had access to an abundance of plant materials.
Purpose and Meaning
Beyond personal decoration, Native American necklaces often carried deeper ceremonial, spiritual, and societal significance. Some of the symbolic meanings behind tribal necklaces include:
Status and rank – Certain necklaces could signify social position and achievement. More elaborate shell or beadwork designs were reserved for tribal chiefs and leaders.
Adornment for ceremonies – Special necklaces were worn during sacred rituals, dances, and important events. They enhanced traditional regalia and outfits.
Tribal identity – Styles, patterns, and materials varied for each tribe. For example, Dine (Navajo) necklaces were distinct from Lakota necklaces. This allowed individuals to proudly display their tribal affiliation.
Connection to the spirit world – Some tribes believed necklaces carried spiritual energy and offered protection, like bear claw necklaces worn by Sioux warriors. Shells and gemstones held sacred meaning.
Honoring the natural world – Natural materials from animals and plants were carefully incorporated into necklace designs, representing Native peoples’ deep interconnection with the land and environment.
Gifts and diplomacy – Custom necklaces were often exchanged as meaningful gifts during trade and diplomacy between tribes and early colonial settlers. The wampum belt is one significant example.
Transmission of culture – Intricate patterns and beadwork contained cultural meaning passed down through generations. The necklaces connected wearers to their shared history and customs.
Mourning and remembrance – Beadwork and jewelry was sometimes created to honor those who had passed away. Dark colored beads were often used in mourning necklaces.
Manufacturing and Materials
Native American necklaces were hand crafted using regional materials available to each tribe. Some of the techniques and materials used include:
- Bone, shell, and wood beads – Materials that could be carved, cut, and polished into beads were widely used across tribes.
- Porcupine quills – Dyed and flattened quills were woven into intricate beadwork and patterns.
- Leather or hide cordage – Necklaces were commonly strung using leather straps or animal hide cords.
- Sinew – Animal tendons provided durable, strong cordage for stringing beads.
- Silver – Sheets of silver were worked into beads, settings, and other components.
- Gemstones – Turquoise, coral, jet, and other polished stones were incorporated by some tribes.
- Dyes and pigments – Beads and porcupine quills were often dyed with native plants, minerals, and other natural pigments.
- Looms and awls – Small hand looms, awls, and other simple tools were used.
It took great skill, technique, and artistry to craft the intricate and colorful beadwork that Native American necklaces are recognized for today. The varied regional resources allowed each tribe to develop their own distinct style over generations.
History and Origins
The oldest known examples of Native American jewelry and neckwear date back nearly 12,000 years to the Archaic period. However, most iconic tribal necklaces emerged after European contact brought trade materials like glass beads and more advanced tools that transformed indigenous craftsmanship. Here is an overview of how Native American necklaces developed through key historical periods:
Pre-European Period:
– Oldest known jewelry pieces date to Archaic period around 10,000 BCE.
– Beads carved from shell, bone, teeth, wood, and copper among early materials.
– Simple single strand bead and pendant necklaces.
European Colonial Period:
– Introduction of glass beads, textiles, and metals from European trade.
– Adapted loom weaving and silversmithing techniques.
– Emerged distinct regional styles (Iroquois wampum belts, Navajo silverwork, etc.)
19th Century:
– Intricate floral beadwork patterns emerge among Eastern tribes.
– Turquoise and silver jewelry proliferates in Southwest.
– Native crafts gain popularity among white tourists.
20th/21st Century:
– Revival of tribal artisan traditions.
– Use of necklaces to maintain cultural identity and connection to heritage.
– Contemporary Native artists blend old and new methods and materials.
The evolution of Native beadwork and jewelry reflects the resilience, adaptability, and ingenuity of indigenous people throughout history in the face of colonization and cultural pressures. Today, necklaces remain a profoundly important representation of tradition.
Famous Examples and Artists
Many outstanding examples of Native beadwork and jewelry highlight the skills of historic and contemporary artisans. Some influential Native American jewelry artists include:
Navajo:
– Atsidi Sani (c.1828-1918) – Famous Navajo silversmith who innovated new techniques.
– Mary Holiday Black (1914-2011) – Renowned Navajo jeweler specializing in chip inlay jewelry.
Ojibwe:
– Carl Beam (1943-2005) – Ojibwe artist who juxtaposed traditional and modern materials.
– Kelly Church (b. 1967) – Makes Woodlands-style floral beadwork jewelry.
Iroquois/Haudenosaunee:
– Tom Huff (b. 1945) – Makes traditional Haudenosaunee beadwork.
– Myra Mimis (b. 1956) – Seneca bead artist known for whimsical contemporary designs.
Cherokee:
– William Tracy Brown (1911-1975) – famous for sterling silver Cherokee jewelry.
– Mary Ross (1923-2019) – Popcorn stitch beadwork artist from Oklahoma.
Coast Salish:
– Susan Point (b. 1952) – Salish artist who incorporates Coast Salish imagery and symbolism.
– Maynard Johnny Jr. (b. 1969) – Kwakwaka’wakw jeweler specializing in argillite carvings.
Conclusion
Native American necklaces offer a window into the distinct cultures and worldviews of indigenous tribes across North America. Beyond decorative appeal, materials like beads, silver, bone, and shells carried deep spiritual meaning and connection to the natural world. Each tribe developed its own necklace styles that conveyed identity, status, cultural values, and beliefs. Through skillful handiwork passed down across generations, Native artisans transformed nature’s bounty into empowering adornments. The evolution of Native jewelry also reveals how tribes actively adapted new materials and methods while preserving heritage. Today, necklaces remain symbols of cultural resilience, memory, and Native pride. Their beauty and craftsmanship leaves a lasting imprint on America’s collective artistry and history.
