Color changing lipstick has become a popular cosmetic product in recent years. This type of lipstick appears one color when applied to the lips, but then changes to another color in response to the pH level of the wearer’s lips. But what makes these magical lipsticks able to transform their hue? The secret lies in the innovative ingredients that give the lipstick its color-changing properties.
How Color Changing Lipsticks Work
Most color changing lipsticks contain ingredients that are pH sensitive. The pH level of our lips tends to be acidic, usually around 5.5 to 6 on the pH scale. However, when we eat or drink, the pH of our lips can go up temporarily as saliva neutralizes the acidity. This fluctuation in pH triggers the color change in pH sensitive lipsticks.
There are a few key ingredients in these color morphing lippies:
- pH sensitive pigments – These are pigments that will change color based on the acidity or alkalinity of the environment.
- Base pigments – These are regular, non-pH sensitive pigments that provide the core color of the lipstick.
- Emulsifiers – These ingredients help blend the pH sensitive pigments with the base pigments.
- Waxes and oils – These provide moisture and wearability for the lipstick.
By combining pH sensitive pigments with regular pigments, lipstick chemists can create a lip color that transforms in response to the lips’ pH. Let’s take a deeper look at how this works.
pH Sensitive Pigments
The key to creating color changing lipstick is the pH sensitive pigments. These are special pigments that will exhibit one color in acidic environments and a different color in alkaline environments. Some examples of pH sensitive pigments include:
- Red 27 Aluminum Lake – Red in acidic environments, purple in alkaline environments
- Red 28 Aluminum Lake – Orange in acidic environments, red in alkaline environments
- Phenolphthalein – Clear in acidic environments, fuchsia in alkaline environments
- Thymolphthalein – Clear in acidic environments, blue in alkaline environments
Chemists can blend these pH sensitive color changing pigments to create a customized color transformation. For example, a lipstick may contain a red pigment that shifts to purple and a yellow pigment that stays yellow. When applied to more acidic lips, the combination turns orange. But on more alkaline lips, the red transforms to purple, mixing with the yellow to turn violet.
How pH Affects Pigments
To understand why pH sensitive pigments change color, we need to understand a little bit about chemistry. The pigments used in color changing lipsticks are examples of acid-base indicators. This means they exhibit different colors depending on the pH of their environment.
Here’s a simple explanation of why pH affects these pigments:
- Acidic environments have a lot of H+ ions (protons).
- Alkaline environments have a lot of OH- ions (hydroxide ions).
- The pigment molecules have areas that can gain or lose H+ ions (protonation/deprotonation).
- Protonation status affects the light absorption of the pigment, changing its color.
For example, phenolphthalein is colorless in acidic environments when it is protonated. But in alkaline environments, it loses protons and turns fuchsia. The change in protonation changes the light absorbing properties of the molecule, resulting in a dramatic color change.
Mixing with Base Pigments
In addition to the pH sensitive pigments, color changing lipsticks contain regular, non-reactive pigments. These base pigments are blended with the pH sensitive pigments to create the initial color of the lipstick before it reacts to the lips’ pH.
Here are some examples of common base pigments used:
- Iron oxides – Adds red, black, brown, or yellow tones
- Mica – Adds shimmer
- Titanium dioxide – Adds white/opacity
- Carmine – Adds red tones
- Manganese violet – Adds violet/purple tones
By selecting the right balance of pH sensitive pigments and base pigments, chemists can dial in the exact color change they want. For example, a blue to pink color changing lipstick might contain:
- Thymolphthalein – pH sensitive pigment that is clear acidic, blue alkaline
- Phenolphthalein – pH sensitive pigment that is clear acidic, fuchsia alkaline
- Iron oxides (red and yellow) – Base pigments to add an orangey tone
When this blend is in the acidic environment of the lips, the lipstick appears orangey. But on the more alkaline lips, the blue and fuchsia pH sensitive pigments emerge, combining with the base pigments to create a vibrant pinkish-purple hue.
Role of Emulsifiers
In order to get the pH sensitive pigments to blend evenly with the base pigments, color changing lipsticks leverage emulsifiers. An emulsifier is an ingredient that helps mix together parts that normally don’t blend well, like oil and water.
By using emulsifiers, chemists can create an even distribution of the pH sensitive pigments throughout the lipstick base. This ensures the color change happens uniformly across the lips. Here are some common emulsifiers used:
- Stearic acid – A fatty acid that assists with pigment dispersion
- Glycerin – A humectant that helps with moisture and blending
- Cetyl alcohol – A fatty alcohol that improves product texture
The emulsifiers allow the pH sensitive pigments to be dispersed through the waxes, oils, and other lipstick ingredients evenly so the color transformation can happen reliably.
Lipstick Base Ingredients
In addition to the color changing pigments and emulsifiers, color changing lipsticks also contain moisturizing waxes and oils to improve the feel and wear of the product. The lipstick base gives the product a creamy, silky texture.
Some common lipstick base ingredients include:
- Beeswax – Provides structure and stability
- Candelilla wax – A vegan alternative to beeswax
- Carnauba wax – Adds gloss and slip
- Castor oil – A moisturizing oil
- Vitamin E – An antioxidant that conditions lips
- Shea butter – A nourishing fat that softens lips
A typical color changing lipstick recipe contains 70-80% waxes and oils. The lipstick base not only gives the product a pleasant, cushiony feel but also provides emollients to condition lips and make the color last.
Creating the Color Changing Effect
The first step in creating a color changing lipstick is selecting the pH sensitive pigments that will create the desired color morphing effect. Chemists experiment with different ratios of pigments to achieve the target color change.
Next, they blend in base pigments like iron oxides and carmine to establish the initial color in acidic conditions. Emulsifiers help incorporate the pH sensitive pigments evenly throughout the waxy, fatty base of the lipstick.
Finally, moisturizing oils and butters are added to give the lipstick a comfortable, hydrating feel on the lips. Vitamin E and antioxidants help maintain the integrity of the pH sensitive pigments over time.
The result is a lipstick that glides on smoothly, deposits vibrant color, and then transforms in response to the wearer’s personal lip chemistry. From there, the fun is applying the lipstick and seeing your bespoke color unfold!
Popular Color Changes
Color changing lipstick first became popular around the late 1990s, and cosmetic chemists have been expanding the range of color combinations ever since. Here are some of the most popular color transformations available:
| Start Color | Change Color |
|---|---|
| Pink | Peach |
| Pink | Berry |
| Pink | Red |
| Orange | Red |
| Peach | Pink |
| Berry | Pink |
| Blue | Pink |
As you can see, pink is a very common start color that shifts to various hues like peach, berry, and red. Orange to red is also a popular transition. Recently, more blue-based colors that change to pink or purple have hit the market, expanding the novelty of color changing lipsticks.
Benefits of Color Changing Lipstick
So why has color changing lipstick become such a hot commodity? Here are some of the benefits that make these mystical lip colors so popular:
- Novelty – The color transformation is unique and exciting.
- Customization – The resulting shade is personalized to your lips.
- Versatility – It’s like getting two lippies in one.
- Self-expression – Allows you to showcase your individuality.
In an era of social media and selfies, color changing lipsticks give people a fun way to switch up their look on-the-fly. The color change effect almost acts like a science experiment on your lips. It’s this novelty factor that makes color changing lippies a staple in any beauty lover’s collection.
Tips for Application
To get the best results from your color changing lipstick, follow these tips:
- Start with clean, dry lips – Remove any traces of balms or oils so the lipstick adheres well.
- Use a lip liner if desired – This helps define edges.
- Apply an even layer of lipstick directly from the bullet.
- Blot with a tissue to remove excess, if needed.
- Avoid drinking water or touching lips right after application.
- Reapply after eating or drinking for fresh color change.
- Use a makeup setting spray to extend wear.
Going on smoothly and evenly in a thin layer will allow the pH magic to happen reliably. Avoid over-applying or letting the lipstick spread outside lip lines. For long lasting effects, use lipstick primer and setting spray to lock in the transforming color.
How Long Does the Color Change Last?
Color changing lipsticks are formulated to continue reacting to pH fluctuations for as long as you wear them. However, the color change effect will be most dramatic within the first 1-2 hours after application. After eating or drinking, you can refresh with another layer to amp up the color change again.
Without reapplication, the color change effect will gradually become more subtle over time. This is because the pH sensitive pigments will have reacted fully to the pH of your lips. Even if the color starts to stabilize after a few hours, these lipsticks will still show some variance if you eat or drink something pH altering.
As the lipstick starts to wear off naturally, the color change effect will diminish. But amping up with an extra coat will revive the transformation if desired. With touch ups, you can make these color shifting lippies last 4-6 hours or more.
Do Color Changing Lipsticks Work on Everyone?
Color changing lipsticks rely on the pH level of your lips to create the color transformation. Because everyone’s lips have slightly different pH levels, the resulting shade may vary from person to person.
Lips have a natural pH range of 5.5 to 7. Changes in diet, hygiene, and health can all impact lip pH. The more alkaline your lips are, the more dramatic the color change effect.
If someone’s lips are at the lower end of the pH scale, nearer 5.5, they may only experience subtle color shifts. But those with more alkaline lips nearer 7 will see bold transformations. People who get good color play tend to have less acidic lips.
You can experiment to see how strongly your natural lip pH activates the color change pigments. Testing out the lipstick for the first time is the best way to see if your body chemistry brings out the full effect.
Are Color Changing Lipsticks Safe?
Color changing lipsticks from reputable cosmetic brands are generally safe to use. The pigments and ingredients used are formulated for use on lips and face. As with any cosmetic, those with sensitive skin should still patch test before full application.
Avoid products that contain phenol, a potentially toxic compound that was used in early versions of color changing lipstick. Responsible brands now use phenolphthalein instead of phenol for the color change effect.
Steer clear of DIY or homemade color changing lipstick recipes, as they may use unsafe ingredients not meant for cosmetics. As long as you purchase color changing lipstick from a trustworthy makeup company, the products should be free of hazardous chemicals.
How to Remove Color Changing Lipstick
Color changing lipsticks tend to have tenacious staying power, thanks to the waxes and oils in their formula. But you can break down those conditioning ingredients with the right removal techniques:
- Use an oil-based makeup remover – The oil will dissolve waxes and pigments.
- Gently rub with a wet washcloth – The warm water will help loosen the product.
- Apply lip balm and wipe away – The emollients help lift lipstick off lips.
- Use micellar water on a cotton pad – Great for gentle but thorough cleansing.
- Exfoliate first if needed – Sloughing off dead skin helps lipstick exit pores.
Avoid tugging or pulling aggressively, as this can be irritating. With consistent cleansing and some lip exfoliation beforehand, the color changing lippie will give way.
Conclusion
Color changing lipstick is a mesmerizing makeup technology that reveals the artistry and innovation of cosmetic chemists. By harnessing the powers of pH, these specialists can craft lip colors that transform in response to your personal chemistry. Understanding the science behind the color change allows us to unlock the magic of these mystical lippies.