The phrase “when in doubt, wear black” is a classic fashion tip implying that the color black is always a safe, sophisticated choice when you are unsure of what to wear. But where did this famous quote come from? In this article, we will explore the origins and meaning behind the “when in doubt, wear black” maxim.
History of the Phrase
The exact origins of the phrase “when in doubt, wear black” are unclear, but it first started appearing in print in the early 20th century.
In 1937, Edna Woolman Chase, the longtime editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine, published a book called Always In Vogue. In the book, she included the advice “when in doubt, wear black.” This early printed reference suggests the phrase was already commonly uttered in fashionable circles by the 1930s.
In the postwar 1940s, as Christian Dior’s luxurious “New Look” took over fashion with its nipped waists and full skirts, mentions of the “when in doubt” maxim multiplied. Dior himself was a great proponent of wearing black.
Hollywood movies of the 1950s also helped popularize the elegant simplicity of the little black dress. Audrey Hepburn wore the iconic black Givenchy dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961.
So while the phrase was not coined by one single person, early 20th century fashionistas like Edna Chase, Christian Dior and Hollywood stars helped cement “when in doubt, wear black” as a go-to style tip.
Meaning and Usage of the Phrase
At its core, “when in doubt, wear black” recommends relying on the color black when you are unsure of what to wear. It is an easy guideline to follow when you are stuck deciding what to put on.
Black is considered a classic, versatile and elegant neutral that can work for many occasions. A little black dress or black blazer is a wardrobe staple. When paired with accessories or other colors, black can be dressed up or down.
So “when in doubt” suggests times when you are second-guessing an outfit, have many clothing options laid out on the bed to choose from, or don’t know what dress code an event calls for. The color black is your safe default.
The advice is especially pertinent for more formal events when you want to look polished and sophisticated. Showing up in black mitigates the risk of looking under-dressed.
While the phrase began as a style tip for women’s fashion, it can just as easily apply to men’s formalwear. A black suit on a man conveys the same elegance.
When the Phrase Might Not Apply
While “when in doubt, wear black” is sage advice, it does not necessarily apply to all situations. Here are some cases where black may not be the best choice:
- Very formal events with strict dress codes like black tie, white tie or ceremonial attire
- Weddings where the bride has requested guests not wear black
- Daytime summer events, especially outdoor weddings or garden parties
- Situations where you want to wear colors – black can look too stark and somber
The maxim is most fitting for semi-formal to formal events happening in cooler weather or at night. Daytime events often call for lighter, brighter colors and fabrics.
Ultimately, use common sense. If black seems too dark or formal for the occasion, go with your gut and choose something else. The “when in doubt” premise suggests flexibility.
Why Does the Phrase Recommend Black Specifically?
There are a few key reasons why black is the specially called out color for unsure occasions:
Black is versatile
True black clothing acts as a blank slate you can pair with practically anything. Jewelry pops against black. Black works with any color accents. It transitions seamlessly from day to night. The versatility allows you to adapt it to many contexts.
Black is timeless
Unlike trends that come and go, true black is always in fashion. Its reputation as a classic color remains constant year after year. A black ensemble will never appear dated.
Black is slimming
The color black has a slimming effect that helps the wearer look thinner. This flattering aspect adds to its appeal.
Black conveys elegance and sophistication
Black carries an air of refinement and luxury. Darker colors are associated with prestige and ceremony across cultures. Black suggests the wearer has taste and polish.
So versatility, timelessness, slimming illusion and elegance all make black a prime choice when unsure.
Exceptions and Cautions to the Advice
While “when in doubt, wear black” remains sage guidance, here are some exceptions and cautions to keep in mind:
Avoid black head-to-toe
Going full black from head to toe can look overly vampirish or harsh. Add a color pop with a scarf, jewelry or shoe. Mixing black with gray creates softer contrast.
Skip black if explicitly told not to wear it
Etiquette rules at formal weddings or events may preclude wearing black. Follow the hosts’ wishes.
Stay away from black in summer
Black clothing can be uncomfortably hot in warmer weather or outdoor sunshine. Lighter colors breath better.
Pair black with brighter colors for contrast
Black next to pale pastels or saturated brights stops the look from appearing too goth or ominous.
Avoid cheap, dull black fabrics
Polyester black can look flat and lifeless rather than luxe. Seek deep black cotton, silk or wool fabrics when possible.
Skip black if you want to stand out
At crowded mixers or parties where you want to get noticed, black may allow you to blend into the shadows rather than draw eyes.
So while black is generally safe, give thought to the overall look, context and your goals before relying on it.
Who Should Follow the Advice
While “when in doubt, wear black” began as a tip for women, it applies equally to men’s formalwear. Both genders can utilize this fail-safe color option.
However, the following groups, in particular, get great mileage from heeding this guideline:
- Job seekers for interviews, work events
- Graduating students for ceremonies, dining events
- Wedding guests, especially bridesmaids and groomsmen
- Travelers for flights, client dinners, and conferences
- Teenagers headed to dances, dates, parties
So any man or woman unsure of how to dress for an important work function, formal occasion, or classic staple item finds an answer in black.
Examples of Using Black When in Doubt
Here are some common scenarios where employing the “when in doubt, wear black” maxim proves useful:
Job interview for a role with vague dress code
A black suit or black sheath dress and blazer signals professionalism.
Attending an evening wedding as a guest
A classic black cocktail dress or tuxedo works for semi-formal wedding dress codes.
Business conference with an evening awards ceremony
Packing a versatile black dress or suit covers you for daytime sessions and evening events.
Law firm dinner party where attire details are unknown
A black shift dress indicates the smartness of a law firm culture.
Meeting your significant other’s work friends for the first time
A black jacket or black button-down shirt and trousers makes a good early impression.
The Enduring Wisdom of the Phrase
For over one hundred years, fashion luminaries, style influencers and everyday men and women have turned to the maxim “when in doubt, wear black” as a definitive way to approach uncertain dressing circumstances. Its legacy continues in fashion guides today.
While allowing for some modern exceptions, this timeless advice survives as a wise fail-safe option for projecting confidence through clothing. Black’s versatility to transition from day to night contributes to its enduring reputation as a default color.
Next time you face a closet full of possible outfits for an important occasion, let “when in doubt, wear black” give clarity to your choices. Walking out the door in black shifts the focus from your clothes to you.
Conclusion
The iconic phrase “when in doubt, wear black” has its origins in early 20th century high fashion circles, with the color black becoming a symbol of effortless chic. While its exact origin is unknown, fashion pioneers like Coco Chanel and Christian Dior popularized the notion that black was a versatile, polished color choice for any sophisticated occasion. Over the decades, black has maintained its status as a classic, stylish neutral. For both men and women, it projects elegance and confidence when dressing for many formal events, elevated dates, and moments with ambiguous dress codes. Of course, common sense exceptions apply, and all black head-to-toe can appear harsh. But employed with flexibility, the timeless motto remains sage guidance for uncertain fashion moments.